Tom:
You're welcome for the picture. Yes, all the plug ends of the wires are 90
degrees. I don't have any pictures specifically of the front of my truck, but
I know what you're talking about. I had the front of my truck off and on
several times over a 2 year period when I was playing with the front
suspension and later installing an IFS.
Something that really helped me was a factory assembly manual. They are
available from most of the classic parts vendors and show some great exploded
views of the sheet metal and how it should be attached. It was very helpful
to me for the whole truck and showed how the sheet metal was spot welded, how
everything fit together and even what size fasteners (bolts) should be used.
I think it would be a good investment if you're planning to do a lot of work
to the body.
Good Luck and feel free to write back if I can give you any other information.
That's what is great about having a website like oletucks!
Carl Ham
'56 Chevy Stepside Pickup
Sparland, IL
From: cooptnt@att.netTo: the_hams@hotmail.comSubject: RE: [oletrucks] heat on
wire bootDate: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 17:30:40 -0500
HI Carl,Thanks for the picture, it came through fine and it looks great. Are
all of the wire ends 90 degree? If you have any other pictures of your truck,
especially around the front fenders, grill area, inner fenders attaching to
the firewall, I would be interested in seeing them. I dont think my truck was
exactly put back together correctly the last time it was taken apart. Any
reference pictures are appreciated .Thanks again for the help.
Tom
-----Original Message-----From: Carl & Becky Ham [mailto:the_hams@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 1:36 PMTo: passnb4u@earthlink.net;
cooptnt@att.net; oletrucks oletrucksSubject: RE: [oletrucks] heat on wire
boot
Tom:Last winter I put headers on my 283 and before the swap from cast
manifolds had the plug wires running up from underneath to keep the engine
'clean' looking. When I put the headers on, I bought a set of ACCEL temp
resistant wires (they were pricey, about $110 as I recall). I also bought a
pair of polished aluminum wire looms that attach to the bottom valve cover
bolts. These looms route the wires from the back of the block and drop them
down from above for an organized clean look. I'll try attaching a picture to
this reply so you can see how they look on my engine. You should be able to
zoom-in on the picture and see what I'm talking about. If the picture doesn't
come through, email off-list and I'll resend the picture directly to your
email address. I drove the truck for about 5000 miles this summer and had no
problems with the wires. Hope this helps. Carl Ham'56 Chevy Stepside
PickupSparland, IL> Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 06:48:37 -0800> From:
passnb4u@earthlink.net> To: cooptnt@att.net; oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] heat on wire boot> > Accel makes a short plug. You
also might look into different angles for the wire ends, route the wires on
top with wire holders and drop them down to the plugs.> > Mike> >
-----Original Message-----> >From: Tom Cooper <cooptnt@att.net>> >Sent: Nov
18, 2008 4:03 PM> >To: Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>> >Subject:
[oletrucks] heat on wire boot> >> >I have a 1974 350 in my truck and although
I haven't let it run longer than> >20 or 30 minutes, I believe I may end up
with a heat problem from the> >headers. My plugs are underneath some of the
header pipes and may create a> >melting of the wire boot when I let it run up
to full speed, when ever that> >may be. Anyway, is there a long plug and a
short plug for the 350? Is> >there a plug wire boot that will not burn and
melt?> >> > Thanks for the advice> >> > Tom in SC> >> > 1955 2nd> > oletrucks
is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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