>Using an original Mustang crossmember is not a good idea,
>but there are a lot of aftermarket parts to do the swap that
>make it much easier and stronger. And the original frame
>stays intact, which makes the front
>sheetmetal/bumper/radiator mounting much easier. Although
>there is a problem with the steering shaft and exhaust
>clearance, it usualy requires a monkey motion steering shaft
>with 3 ujoints to clear the header when using the Mustang
>front end.
I have been telling him this Jim. He is stubborn. He is neither rich nor a
particularly good fabricator so ultimately I think he is going to learn his
lesson via the school of big $$$. The car also has the rear part of the
frame all boogered up by some guy who was going to use it for dirt racing
and wanted the rear end low. He is going to try and work with that too. If
it were mine, I would go get another unmolested frame and start from square
one. He has a guy who is willing to practically give him a frame but he is
hellbent to go this way. I will pass on your advice however and then remind
him of it when he is knee deep in metal shavings and part A isn't fitting
part B. ;^)
Thanks for the input!
=========================
Bill Bailey
Hagerstown, MD
1957 Chevrolet 1/2 ton
http://www.oletruck.com
bill@oletruck.com
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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