> I usually just apply hand pressure to the pinion
> yoke and
> turn the ring gear by hand. Do you have a *lot* of
> marking
> compound on the teeth? You need to put it on thick,
> perhaps
> .010" or more, to really see anything. Make sure
> you can't
> see thru the compound after you brush it on, it
> needs to be
> fully opaque. Then when you turn the gears, it will
> become
> "see through" where the teeth are making contact.
>
I followed Jim's advice and put the gear marking paint
on heavy enough cover 3 groups of 3 teeth around the
ring gear. This time I only turned the pinion enough
to contact the painted teeth once. I got real lucky.
the pattern was right on. I torqued everything down as
the book says. I put 2 quarts of gear lube in before I
buttoned it all up. I installed the rear end and lined
it up on the spring pads correctly. It had slipped
back about 1/2 inch on both sides. I also adjusted
the drive line geometry to give me 4 degrees on the
transmission and on the rear end, with 2 degrees on
the drive shaft. After I set all of that I took it for
a test drive. No noise, no vibration, how sweet it is.
The 3.08 posi makes it harder to break the tires
loose, but it leaves two black stripes on the road
instead of one. Now I can go buy the 275R60 tires for
the rear end. It will be a challenge to make them
chirp. With the price of them, I hope I can't break
them loose and all of the power transfers to
acceleration.
=====
Jim Nordwall
http://bluetruck.home.mchsi.com
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