----- Original Message -----
From: "oletrucks-digest" <owner-ole-trucks@autox.team.net>
To: <oletrucks-digest@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 11:06 AM
Subject: oletrucks-digest V2 #2121
>
> oletrucks-digest Thursday, December 4 2003 Volume 02 : Number
2121
>
>
>
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["Steve Hanberg"
<steve@OldSub.com>]
> RE: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["Hanlon, Bill (ISS Houston)"
<bill.han]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["Gary Garrison"
<hgarrison@sc.rr.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["The Botelers"
<boteler@olg.com>]
> [oletrucks] Barrett Jackson Auto Auction [Robert Baird
<bairdr@charter.ne]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes [Bruce Kettunen
<bekett@uslink.net>]
> RE: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["Hanlon, Bill (ISS Houston)"
<bill.han]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes [zman
<zman@gibbon.kungfumonkey.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["Steve Hanberg"
<steve@OldSub.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes [Alan Horvath
<alan@alanhorvath.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes [J Forbes
<jforb@mindspring.com>]
> RE: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["Tom C."
<c_tom@bellsouth.net>]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
[Mask1966@aol.com]
> [oletrucks] Cigarette lighter removal ["Patrick Sackrider"
<phsackrider@c]
> [oletrucks] DISC BRAKES ["Dennis Larson"
<DLLarson1@frontiernet.net>]
> Re: [oletrucks] Barrett Jackson Auto Auction [Alan Horvath
<alan@alanhorv]
> Re: [oletrucks] Cigarette lighter removal [Alan Horvath
<alan@alanhorvath]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
[Wdonohoe1@aol.com]
> [oletrucks] water temp ["Tom C."
<c_tom@bellsouth.net>]
> [oletrucks] Windshield Washer Unit ["Jim Wilkerson"
<Jim.Wilkerson@sas.co]
> Re: [oletrucks] water temp [Bruce Kettunen
<bekett@uslink.net>]
> Re: [oletrucks] Windshield Washer Unit [Bruce Kettunen
<bekett@uslink.net]
> Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes ["Jim (Deacon) and Karen Magill"
<dnkma]
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 10:22:02 -0800
> From: "Steve Hanberg" <steve@OldSub.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> I'm running front disks on my AD Suburban. Used an inexpensive kit and
> provided my own rotors and calipers. You need to install a dual master,
and
> add some brake plumbing to make it work.
>
> I described the process on my web site. www.oldsub.com.
>
> It stops great, but does need more push on the peddle to operate. I did
> recently need to stop real quick, and didn't have any trouble applying
> plenty of pressure.
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wayne osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 7:57 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
>
> Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody got an
> idea on how this setup would work without the power booster thus having
non
> power front disc brakes... How would they perform this way??
> Any thoughts. --wayne
>
>
>
> Wayne Osborne
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 12:33:43 -0600
> From: "Hanlon, Bill (ISS Houston)" <bill.hanlon@hp.com>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> I have front disks with no power booster. I am very satisfied with them.
Bought the bracket kit from Heavy Chevy http://www.heavychevy.com. It was
actually made by Buffalo Enterprises http://www.inliners.org/buffalo/ This
kit uses mid 70's Checy/GMC 4WD 1/2 ton front calipers and rotors. Rotors
mount directly to TF hubs using longer (supplied in the kit) lug bolts. Kit
came with 3/16" 6 lug spacers to move the wheels out slightly. I run 15"x7"
wheels from mid 70's 4x4 with 235/70 tires and did not need these spaces.
Maybe they are needed with stock wheels.
>
>
> I installed a dual chamber non-power boost master cylinder, also from
Heavy Chevy. Only thing I did not like about it was that they don't tell
you where the master cylinder came from. It is a bear checking/filling the
fluid reservoir. If I were doing it again I'd look into using a master
cylinder with remote reservoirs.
>
>
> My truck has been my everyday driver for 14+ years. The disk brakes have
been on for 4+ years. They stop straight and with much better control than
the drums did.
>
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of wayne osborne
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 9:57 AM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
>
> Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody got an
> idea on how this setup would work without the power booster thus having
non
> power front disc brakes... How would they perform this way??
> Any thoughts. --wayne
>
>
>
> Wayne Osborne
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 13:43:23 -0500
> From: "Gary Garrison" <hgarrison@sc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> Almost all the old Corvettes (late 60's to mid 70's) had manual disc
brakes.
> I owned several and never really saw the need in power disc. Would I buy
a
> new Corvette without power disc brakes - no. Is there a problem with
manual
> disc brakes - no. It is really a function of the master cylinder piston
> diameter and the leverage the brake pedal applies to it.
>
> Gary
> 51 3800 panel
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wayne osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 10:57 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
>
> > Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody got
an
> > idea on how this setup would work without the power booster thus having
> non
> > power front disc brakes... How would they perform this way??
> > Any thoughts. --wayne
> >
> >
> >
> > Wayne Osborne
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 14:31:24 -0500
> From: "The Botelers" <boteler@olg.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> Wayne,
>
> It shouldn't be any harder then the "non-power/drums" you have now!! With
> the plus being two circuit and faster stops for the same effort.
>
> This is the way we are building my sons truck, but He's off to college and
> the project is on hold.
>
> Happy Holidays!!
>
> Mike Boteler
> '56 4400 Stake
> '56 6400 Stake
> '56 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
> '56 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
> '57 10500 Fire Truck
> Hughesville, MD
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wayne osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 10:57 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
>
> > Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody got
an
> > idea on how this setup would work without the power booster thus having
> non
> > power front disc brakes... How would they perform this way??
> > Any thoughts. --wayne
> >
> >
> >
> > Wayne Osborne
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 13:29:42 -0600
> From: Robert Baird <bairdr@charter.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Barrett Jackson Auto Auction
>
> http://www.barrett-jackson.com/
> There are some good looking trucks going to auction at the Barrett
> Jackson Auto Auction coming in January 21-25, 2004. Scotsdale AZ.
> I have seen 2 1954's 1/2 that will be auctioned they look real good.
>
> Robert Baird FTW Texas
> 1954 1/2 at last, I have a Chevy O Boy
> 1926 1 ton F$$D
> 1923 T-Bucket F$$D with Mouse Motor
> 1960 F$$D Falcon
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 13:48:28 -0600
> From: Bruce Kettunen <bekett@uslink.net>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> My dad's 71 GMC 307/350 half ton had this setup stock from the factory
> (disk/drum no power). Seemed to work just fine. That might be a
> place to look for a donor master cylinder. Also would be a place
> to look for stock caliper diameter and master cylinder diameters
> on a truck similar in size to yours.
>
> Unfortunately, the wheels were 5 hole.
>
> Bruce Kettunen
> 57 3200
> Mt. Iron, MN
>
>
> At Wednesday, 03 December 2003, you wrote:
>
> >Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody
> got an
> >idea on how this setup would work without the power booster thus
> having non
> >power front disc brakes... How would they perform this way??
> >Any thoughts. --wayne
> >
> >Wayne Osborne
> >http://www.chevytrucks.org
> >http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
>
>
>
> ===================================================================
> EASY and FREE access to your email anywhere: http://Mailreader.com/
> ===================================================================
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 14:05:07 -0600
> From: "Hanlon, Bill (ISS Houston)" <bill.hanlon@hp.com>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> My understanding is that a single chamber master will not work well with a
disk/drum system, even with the proportioning valve. Detroit always (I'm
sure someone will provide the exception) used a dual chamber system for
disk/drum cars and as cost sensitive as they are if they could have made it
work with the cheaper single chamber system they would have.
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of wayne osborne
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 12:09 PM
> To: IDPHR@aol.com
> Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
>
> An even dumber question---would a stock master cylinder be able to push
> enough fluid for a non power front disk brake setup or would a new master
> cylinder have to be installed also. Since redoing my rear end and finally
> getting it under the truck, got different bolt pattern now (front to rear)
> and want to get the same all way around. Gonna have to get new
> wheels--finally be able to rid myself of the polished aluminum ones, kinda
> like a black vehicle-they look good when cleaned but its a job... Just
> wandering if I could use the stock master cylinder, install a
proportioning
> valve, and use the front disc brake kit that are available to match the
> bolt pattern. This way I can buy new wheels--the same all the way
> around..... --wayne
>
> At 12:32 PM 12/3/03 -0500, IDPHR@aol.com wrote:
> >I have non power discs on my 51 3100...(no room for booster)had to change
> >master cylinder (double resevoir mustang master) and install va
proportioning
> >valve....biggest issue! most of these kits are 5 bolt set-ups and don't
> >match the
> >rear drum bolt pattern. But all in all, since I upgraded power to a '58
235
> >w/ 2 1bbl and dual exhaust, it worked out well.
> >
> >Steve G.
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> Wayne Osborne
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 15:05:27 -0500 (EST)
> From: zman <zman@gibbon.kungfumonkey.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> On Wed, 3 Dec 2003, wayne osborne wrote:
> > Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody got
an
> > idea on how this setup would work without the power booster thus having
non
> > power front disc brakes... How would they perform this way??
> > Any thoughts. --wayne
>
> I actually prefer the feel of manual brakes over power brakes. I guess
> it's from years of racing where the need for feel is greater. The disc kit
> I'm going to put on my '59 will be manual. I'll be using the ECI kit.
> http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/early_chevy_discbrake_conversions.html
>
>
> - --
> Scott H. Zekanis
> zman@kungfumonkey.com
> http://www.rod-o-rama.com
> http://www.thehellbenders.com
> 1957 Buick Riviera Hardtop (2 dr., 364" Nailhead)
> 1959 GMC in Chevy Sheetmetal 1/2 Ton (235" Inline 6)
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 12:31:22 -0800
> From: "Steve Hanberg" <steve@OldSub.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> The short answer is no.
>
> The problem is that your current braking system has a built in residual
> valve to maintain about 10 lbs of pressure to hold the brake shoes close
to
> the drums. That much pressure will keep your disk brakes applied and not
> release them.
>
> Its not that you can't make it work with the single cylinder master, its
> that you'd have to deal with that built in residual valve...
>
> Dual cylinder master, with 2 lb and 10 lb residuals (front and back) and a
> proportioning valve would be your best plan.
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wayne osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
> To: <IDPHR@aol.com>
> Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 10:08 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
>
> An even dumber question---would a stock master cylinder be able to push
> enough fluid for a non power front disk brake setup or would a new master
> cylinder have to be installed also. Since redoing my rear end and finally
> getting it under the truck, got different bolt pattern now (front to rear)
> and want to get the same all way around. Gonna have to get new
> wheels--finally be able to rid myself of the polished aluminum ones, kinda
> like a black vehicle-they look good when cleaned but its a job... Just
> wandering if I could use the stock master cylinder, install a
proportioning
> valve, and use the front disc brake kit that are available to match the
> bolt pattern. This way I can buy new wheels--the same all the way
> around..... --wayne
>
> At 12:32 PM 12/3/03 -0500, IDPHR@aol.com wrote:
> >I have non power discs on my 51 3100...(no room for booster)had to change
> >master cylinder (double resevoir mustang master) and install va
> proportioning
> >valve....biggest issue! most of these kits are 5 bolt set-ups and don't
> >match the
> >rear drum bolt pattern. But all in all, since I upgraded power to a '58
235
> >w/ 2 1bbl and dual exhaust, it worked out well.
> >
> >Steve G.
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> Wayne Osborne
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 15:37:12 -0500
> From: Alan Horvath <alan@alanhorvath.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> Hey, Wayne
>
> I don't know the procedure, since I bought my truck this way, but I've
> got 11-inch front disc brakes (taken from an '82 Monte Carlo) combined
> with my Mustang II IFS. They aren't power brakes, and the truck stops
> just fine ... ESPECIALLY since I cut about 3-inches off the brake
> pedal! The original height of the brake pedal really made it a lot
> harder to brake ... I put a new round Gennie pedal on, cut 3-inches off
> the shaft, and wow - what a difference! Braking was much, much easier
> after that.
>
> Alan
> http://AlanHorvath.com/54chevy/
>
> wayne osborne wrote:
>
> > Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody
> > got an idea on how this setup would work without the power booster
> > thus having non power front disc brakes... How would they perform
> > this way??
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 15:31:30 -0700
> From: J Forbes <jforb@mindspring.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> > An even dumber question---would a stock master cylinder be able to push
> > enough fluid for a non power front disk brake setup or would a new
master
> > cylinder have to be installed also. Since redoing my rear end and
finally
> > getting it under the truck, got different bolt pattern now (front to
rear)
> > and want to get the same all way around. Gonna have to get new
> > wheels--finally be able to rid myself of the polished aluminum ones,
kinda
> > like a black vehicle-they look good when cleaned but its a job... Just
> > wandering if I could use the stock master cylinder, install a
proportioning
> > valve, and use the front disc brake kit that are available to match the
> > bolt pattern. This way I can buy new wheels--the same all the way
> > around..... --wayne
>
> I got a master cylinder adapter from Chevy Duty to put a dual disk brake
> type master cylinder on my 57 Suburban I'm building. I have not
> finished building the truck, so I don't know how it works.
>
> One issue with disk brakes is that as the brake pads wear, fluid
> accumulates in the calipers, so the level in the master cylinder goes
> down. The stock master cylinder may or may not hold enough fluid to
> allow for worn out brake pads...but this is probably not a concern for
> you, since you check the brake fluid level every few months out of habit
:)
>
> Another concern is the residual pressure valve in the master cylinder,
> which is needed for drum brakes. This may result in the disk brakes
> staying applied a little bit when you release the brake pedal, which can
> possibly overheat the brakes.
>
> I've driven my 55 Belair about 40k miles with front disks and rear
> drums, and no power booster. Doesn't bother me at all. In fact, it
> takes the same or less pedal effort than my drum brake trucks to get
> stopped. Also, a friend of mine has a 69 Vette with 4 wheel disk
> brakes, no power booster, and he has no problem stopping it. I think
> power boosters are overrated, or maybe folks have weak legs, because I
> get along fine with manual brakes. Or maybe it's because I've been
> driving oletrucks for 25 years?
>
> - --
> Jim
>
> Visit the Selectric Typewriter Museum!
> http://www.mindspring.com/~jforbes2
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 19:54:08 -0500
> From: "Tom C." <c_tom@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> I assume you are coming through the floor with the new brake pedal?
> Tom
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alan Horvath
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 3:37 PM
> To: wayne osborne
> Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
>
> Hey, Wayne
>
> I don't know the procedure, since I bought my truck this way, but I've
> got 11-inch front disc brakes (taken from an '82 Monte Carlo) combined
> with my Mustang II IFS. They aren't power brakes, and the truck stops
> just fine ... ESPECIALLY since I cut about 3-inches off the brake
> pedal! The original height of the brake pedal really made it a lot
> harder to brake ... I put a new round Gennie pedal on, cut 3-inches off
> the shaft, and wow - what a difference! Braking was much, much easier
> after that.
>
> Alan
> http://AlanHorvath.com/54chevy/
>
> wayne osborne wrote:
>
> > Just curious---been eye balling the front disc brake kits.. Anybody
> > got an idea on how this setup would work without the power booster
> > thus having non power front disc brakes... How would they perform
> > this way??
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 21:56:39 EST
> From: Mask1966@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> In a message dated 12/3/2003 12:35:59 PM Central Standard Time,
> bill.hanlon@hp.com writes:
> I installed a dual chamber non-power boost master cylinder, also from
Heavy
> Chevy. Only thing I did not like about it was that they don't tell you
where
> the master cylinder came from.
>
> I had a similar problem with PU northwest. I bought their bracket - $70
and
> their dual MC -$75. I took the MC to my FLAPS and after some shelf
searching
> figured out the MC was actually from a 70 Nova. I sent the PU northwest
MC
> back for a refund and bought from FLAPS for less than half that price. A
FLAPS
> will do this kind of thing for you, just don't try it at Autozone; they
will
> laugh at you.
>
> Mike Klepp
> '48 3100 5 window
> '65 C-10 stepside
> Wichita Falls, TX
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 21:57:58 -0500
> From: "Patrick Sackrider" <phsackrider@chartermi.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Cigarette lighter removal
>
> I've been stripping out the cab to get it sand blasted and repaired.
> What the heck is holding the lighter unit in the dash? This is a '54
> Chevy.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pat S.
> '54 3600
> Saginaw, MI
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 18:59:15 -0800
> From: "Dennis Larson" <DLLarson1@frontiernet.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] DISC BRAKES
>
> You need a disc brake mastercylinder. Thats all I ever hear about doing a
> changeover, you must use a discbrake M-C and a proportioning valve for the
> back brakes.
>
> Dennis
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 22:43:35 -0500
> From: Alan Horvath <alan@alanhorvath.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Barrett Jackson Auto Auction
>
> May as well enter the $50,000 Sweepstakes while you're at it -- you can
> enter once a week for 4 weeks >> win the cash and buy a new truck!
> :o)
> http://www.speedtv.com/barrettjacksonbucks/
>
> Alan
> http://AlanHorvath.com/54chevy/
>
> Robert Baird wrote:
>
> > http://www.barrett-jackson.com/
> > There are some good looking trucks going to auction at the Barrett
> > Jackson Auto Auction coming in January 21-25, 2004. Scotsdale AZ.
> > I have seen 2 1954's 1/2 that will be auctioned they look real good.
> >
> > Robert Baird FTW Texas
> > 1954 1/2 at last, I have a Chevy O Boy
> > 1926 1 ton F$$D
> > 1923 T-Bucket F$$D with Mouse Motor
> > 1960 F$$D Falcon
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 22:53:54 -0500
> From: Alan Horvath <alan@alanhorvath.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Cigarette lighter removal
>
> Patrick Sackrider wrote:
>
> > I've been stripping out the cab to get it sand blasted and repaired.
> > What the heck is holding the lighter unit in the dash? This is a '54
> > Chevy.
>
> Hey, Pat
>
> Reach BEHIND the dash and lighter ... after removing the wire, grab
> a-hold of the lighter housing and unscrew it. It's threaded from
> behind and the housing presses against the back of the dash, holding
> the lighter in place.
>
> Cool?
>
> Alan
> http://AlanHorvath.com/54chevy/
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 23:36:24 EST
> From: Wdonohoe1@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> In a message dated 12/3/03 12:35:59 PM Central Standard Time,
> bill.hanlon@hp.com writes:
> If I were doing it again I'd look into using a master cylinder with remote
> reservoirs.
> its not that hard to put in remote reservoirs there ia a thread on it int
he
> arcivies
>
> bill
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 06:10:41 -0500
> From: "Tom C." <c_tom@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] water temp
>
> After driving 20 miles home from work yesterday, I checked the radiator
> reservoir, and it was a little low. I took the radiator cap off, it
sounded
> like it spewed out but it was very little. It made more noise than water
> spewing out. I was also able to stick my finger in the water and it was
not
> very hot. The water was warm but I could keep my finger in it. The temp
> gauge was about an 1/8th of the way from the cold mark, not even to the
200
> degree mark. It was very cool when I got home from work, around 38
degrees,
> but I thought the water temp would have been a little higher. More and
more
> I am thinking thermostat. It looks like an easy change, then I will take
it
> and get it flushed. I did see the water circulating, but it didn't seem
like
> very much movement. Maybe because the water was so cool. I am use to
seeing
> the water in my 55 circulate, it moves along rather quickly compared to
the
> 97. Have a nice day.
> Tom
> 55 TF
> 97 S-10
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 10:26:42 -0500
> From: "Jim Wilkerson" <Jim.Wilkerson@sas.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Windshield Washer Unit
>
> Does anyone out there have a windshield washer unit installed in their
restomod? I'd like to install a windshield washer reservoir and pump in the
well behind the seat in my '53 Chevy 1/2 ton. The problem is that the
reservoir/pump units you can buy at your local flaps look really cheap and I
don't think they could pump the fluid that far. Ideally, I'd like to find a
reservoir/pump unit from an auto salvage - I just don't know what year, make
and model to look for. Any ideas!
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jim W.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 12:08:53 -0600
> From: Bruce Kettunen <bekett@uslink.net>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] water temp
>
> 99% sure thermostat. You have to drain the coolant below the stat
> anyways, good time to replace it entirely.
>
> Bruce Kettunen
> 57 3200
> Mt. Iron, MN
>
> At Thursday, 4 December 2003, you wrote:
>
> >After driving 20 miles home from work yesterday, I checked the radiator
> >reservoir, and it was a little low. I took the radiator cap off,
> it sounded
> >like it spewed out but it was very little. It made more noise than
> water
> >spewing out. I was also able to stick my finger in the water and
> it was not
> >very hot. The water was warm but I could keep my finger in it. The temp
> >gauge was about an 1/8th of the way from the cold mark, not even
> to the 200
> >degree mark. It was very cool when I got home from work, around
> 38 degrees,
> >but I thought the water temp would have been a little higher. More
> and more
> >I am thinking thermostat. It looks like an easy change, then I will
> take it
> >and get it flushed. I did see the water circulating, but it didn't
> seem like
> >very much movement. Maybe because the water was so cool. I am use
> to seeing
> >the water in my 55 circulate, it moves along rather quickly compared
> to the
> >97. Have a nice day.
> > Tom
> > 55 TF
> > 97 S-10
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
>
>
>
> ===================================================================
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> ===================================================================
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 12:11:04 -0600
> From: Bruce Kettunen <bekett@uslink.net>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Windshield Washer Unit
>
> In later years, GM integrated the washer pump with the wiper motor,
> not real easy to use here.
>
> I think F**ds still use independent washer motors, similar to the
> one at the FLAPS. It won't take much of a pump to pump from the
> back of the cab to the windshield.
>
> Don't know of any off hand that have an integrated reservoir and
> pump, and if they did, it probably wouldn't fit where you want it.
>
>
> Just about any kind of plastic bottle or jug that fits your space
> can be used as a reservoir. Just punch a hole in the cap and run
> a suction hose into the bottle. Make sure to vent the bottle.
>
> Bruce Kettunen
> 57 3200
> Mt Iron, MN
>
> At Thursday, 4 December 2003, you wrote:
>
> >Does anyone out there have a windshield washer unit installed in their
> >restomod? I'd like to install a windshield washer reservoir and
> pump in
> >the well behind the seat in my '53 Chevy 1/2 ton. The problem is that
> >the reservoir/pump units you can buy at your local flaps look really
> cheap
> >and I don't think they could pump the fluid that far. Ideally,
> I'd like
> >to find a reservoir/pump unit from an auto salvage - I just don't know
> >what year, make and model to look for. Any ideas!
> >
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
> >Jim W.
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
>
>
>
> ===================================================================
> EASY and FREE access to your email anywhere: http://Mailreader.com/
> ===================================================================
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 12:58:18 -0600
> From: "Jim (Deacon) and Karen Magill" <dnkmagill@wtxs.net>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
>
> Do all master cyl. that are on drum brakes come with the built in 10#
residual
> valve? I ask because I switched to the dual master cyl. when I put in the
64
> front clip and now I am adding disc brakes on the front from a 72
Chevelle. I
> am understanding that I will now have to buy a dual master cyl. for
disc/drum
> brakes. Anyone need a slightly used dual/drum master cyl.? Is there no
end?
> Ha! Deacon / 55 TF STILL in progress!
>
> Steve Hanberg wrote:
>
> > The short answer is no.
> >
> > The problem is that your current braking system has a built in residual
> > valve to maintain about 10 lbs of pressure to hold the brake shoes close
to
> > the drums. That much pressure will keep your disk brakes applied and
not
> > release them.
> >
> > Its not that you can't make it work with the single cylinder master, its
> > that you'd have to deal with that built in residual valve...
> >
> > Dual cylinder master, with 2 lb and 10 lb residuals (front and back) and
a
> > proportioning valve would be your best plan.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "wayne osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
> > To: <IDPHR@aol.com>
> > Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 10:08 AM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] front disc brakes
> >
> > An even dumber question---would a stock master cylinder be able to push
> > enough fluid for a non power front disk brake setup or would a new
master
> > cylinder have to be installed also. Since redoing my rear end and
finally
> > getting it under the truck, got different bolt pattern now (front to
rear)
> > and want to get the same all way around. Gonna have to get new
> > wheels--finally be able to rid myself of the polished aluminum ones,
kinda
> > like a black vehicle-they look good when cleaned but its a job... Just
> > wandering if I could use the stock master cylinder, install a
proportioning
> > valve, and use the front disc brake kit that are available to match the
> > bolt pattern. This way I can buy new wheels--the same all the way
> > around..... --wayne
> >
> > At 12:32 PM 12/3/03 -0500, IDPHR@aol.com wrote:
> > >I have non power discs on my 51 3100...(no room for booster)had to
change
> > >master cylinder (double resevoir mustang master) and install va
> > proportioning
> > >valve....biggest issue! most of these kits are 5 bolt set-ups and don't
> > >match the
> > >rear drum bolt pattern. But all in all, since I upgraded power to a '58
235
> > >w/ 2 1bbl and dual exhaust, it worked out well.
> > >
> > >Steve G.
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > Wayne Osborne
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org
> > http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of oletrucks-digest V2 #2121
> ********************************
>
>
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