I think your NUTS on the window idea. Yes, it's been done, some fellas on
www.stovebolt.com site have pictures if you ask. Realize that the cab is
double wall. You'll need a little more metal than just around the rubber
part. The two walls narrow in to be pinch welded to make that window flange.
Some fellas have removed the whole top from waist joint behind seat to the
front windshield posts and welded one in from a 5-window cab. Buy a diff
truck!
G. L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750
AD trucks and MM tractors
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary R. Schwarzrock" <gschwarz@airtimeisp.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 1:35 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] advice on rust treatments
> Does anyone have any good or bad comments on rust treatments? There are
> three products that I have seen mentioned:
>
> Eastwood "corolless"
> POR-15
> Rust Bullet
>
> And a second thought. Has anyone thought of or tried to make a 5 window
cab
> by cutting the window ports out of a thrashed deluxe cab and grafting them
> into a good cab? My thought was to cut the windows out right where the
> rubber molding is on the outside with the thought that the drop into the
> window hole and some "careful welding" might control the warpage, and then
> cut the inside close to the door post and the rear window to get some
> support for the weld seams on the inside.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary 1954 Chev 3100
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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