If the gauge has been "smoked", I don't know that you CAN fix it. There are
some shops (Bowtie Bits & Heavy Chevy) that "work" on these gauges (restore
them & can convert to 12 volt, so no resistor is needed) & they may have
advice and/or replacements, if that is needed. Also try
http://www.speedometershop.com/ in CA, but I know they are going to be
expensive.
The circuit diagram in the shop manual (you DO have one, right?) shows power
through the ammeter, then through the ignition switch to one side of the
fuel gauge (I know that it has to go to ONLY one specific post of the fuel
gauge-the posts are NOT interchangble-how you know which one is usually
marked on the back of the gauge; the manual indicates that the sending unit
is connected to the larger terminal-I ASSUME they are different sizes,
because I rewired mine long enough ago that I don't remember). The gauge
has to have a good ground to it's frame & then to the cab.
The other post of the gauge is connected to the wire leading from the
sending unit. The sending unit ALSO has to have a good ground (I have run a
separate wire from the base of my gauge to the cab body, as my tank was not
providing a good ground on it's own). I understand that the gauge (bench
testing) should have a resistance range of from 0-30 ohms. (I think 0 is
full tank & 30 is the empty position). Someone else will correct me on any
of this if I'm wrong. P.S. even the shop manual states that bad connections
(i.e. bad grounds) are the most common problem with gas gauge issues.
Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-window
Want to make money whenever someone uses their VISA or MasterCard?
www.consumer1st.com/116540/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Parkinson, Rob" <Rob_Parkinson@jdedwards.com>
To: "Doug Pewterbaugh" <dpewter@email.msn.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 5:55 PM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Electrical Questions - horn and gas gauge
> Hi Doug - thanks for your response. One more question - so where does the
power come from to power up the gas gauge? I have wired the sender unit
directly to the gauge. There is no other wire to the gauge except for the
gauge lights.
> I lied one more question - if the gauge is burned up, how do I fix it?
> Thanks very much, Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Pewterbaugh [mailto:dpewter@email.msn.com]
> Sent: Fri 6/20/2003 4:25 PM
> To: Parkinson, Rob; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Electrical Questions - horn and gas gauge
>
>
>
> Yes, you will need a reducer/resistor (if it has already been converted to
> 12 volts, check for a resistor in line to the wire that already goes to
the
> gauge; if the gauge is already wired up, but no resistor in place, that me
> be why your gauge doesn't work-burned up with 12 volts applied-that takes
> only a few seconds or less!).
>
> 2. No, lights for gauges & speedo are part of headlight circuit-nothing to
> do with current from tank to gauge.
>
> Regards,
> Doug Pewterbaugh
> dpewter@msn.com
> Denton, TX
> 49 3104 216 5-window
>
> Want to make money whenever someone uses their VISA or MasterCard?
> www.consumer1st.com/116540/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Parkinson, Rob" <Rob_Parkinson@jdedwards.com>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 3:40 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Electrical Questions - horn and gas gauge
>
>
> > Hi - My son purchased a 51 3100 Chevy.
> > It was already converted to 12V.
> > There is no horn relay, so I need to buy a generic one - anyone have any
> idea where, part number, etc?
> > Also, the gas gauge doesn't work - the lights in the gauge do work
> though - does that mean there is power there for the gas gauge - will I
need
> a power reducer between the sender and the gauge?
> > Thanks for any help.
> > Rob
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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