Floor sag at front mounts? And pedal shaft rubs on metal flooring? The pedal
travel is somewhat adjustable at the stock MC with a rod and nut, not sure
what you have now. How about pedal too heavy for MC, as most late models had
the pedal hanging off firewall and not weighing on MC units.
G. L. Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hanberg" <steve@OldSub.com>
To: <Old-Burb-club@yahoogroups.com>; "OleTrucks mailing List"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 11:36 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] My brake pedal sticks, still
> The brake pedal on my '55 1st Suburban sticks.
>
> It seems to be hanging on the pivot just a little short of returning to
full
> rest. It doesn't do it all the time, and seems only to do it if I have
> stopped a little harder, like a light changes when I still should stop,
but
> might have been a little close. So I think it has something to do with
being
> pushed a little further than normal.
>
> This problem began at the same time I installed a dual master cylinder
using
> the CPP conversion bracket. I think the bracket is forcing the plunger a
> little further toward the center of the truck than stock, and maybe
causing
> the pedal to bind on the pivot. But its not sticking at the furthest
> depression, but rather when its been depressed further it does not return
> quite all the way to full rest.
>
> Anyone have any similar experience? Anyone have any ideas?
>
> Motor is a 60ish GMC 270 with what appears to be the original 4-speed
behind
> it, and I do have the original clutch pedal and associated parts in place.
> I've replaced the brake return spring and that made no significant
difference.
>
> Should I just put a stronger spring on it?
>
> Steve@OldSub.com
> www.OldSub.com
> '54 Chevrolet 3100
> '55.1 GMC Suburban
> '72 Chevrolet C10
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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