You CAN use the jumper from that wire to the big power term stud. The other
needs to go to the switch to get power to "excite" the alt to get it to
start charging. The diode is probly cause it was kinda like left "ON" all
the time and draining battery? I'm thinking it can also go thru a charge
indicator bulb. I have seen tractors that a fella use a bulb right at the
alt. to get it to start charging. IF, you have a "one-wire" alt with the
"self-exciting" reg in it, you don't even need to use the plug in terms at
all. You have to reve the truck a little (like 1200 rpm) to get it to start
charging, but charges at idle after that. I have that set-up on my 54 now.
If you take alt apart it will say se**** for the self-exciting regulator.
OR< you can buy those and put it in the alt to change it to one.
Think on Carter's site at www.chevytrucks.org maybe or other sites like
www.stovebolt.com tech links, they have a wiring diagram and description of
how to do the system. Also Patricks' catalog tells you some on the back page
if you have one of those.
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
glperry@fwi.com
Big AD trucks, COE
MM tractors and 1 Oliver!
----- Original Message -----
From: <JohnHuntD@aol.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 8:29 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Wiring question
> Gentlemen,
>
> The previous owner of my '49 Chevy 3600 3/4 ton pickup converted it from 6
> volts to 12 volts, and used a GM Delco alternator with the built-in
> regulator. The conversion works, but the wires he used are a rat's nest of
> old and corroded wires and terminals, so I'm currently replacing all the
> wiring with new wires and terminals. I'm following the wiring circuitry in
> place,.
>
> One thing strikes me as possibly not correct is the way the previous owner
> wired the aternator. At least it doesn't agree with a wiring diagram shown
in
> my "How to Wire Your Street Rod" handook.
>
> The alternator has the clip-in connector on top with #1 and #2 terminals
and
> wires, and the larger "Bat" threaded terminal at about 8 -o'clock on the
back
> of the alternator. The thick wire from the "Bat" terminal goes to the
"+"side
> of the ammeter gauge, which I believe is correct. The #1 wire from the
> clip-in terminal on top goes to a multi-pronged GM diode with the
"L"-shaped
> arm; that is connected to the ballast resister where it is connected to
the
> same terminal (on the ballast resistor) as the hot wire that comes from
the
> ignition switch.
>
> The wire from the #2 side of the clip-on connector onthe top of the
> alternator is currently connected to the "Bat" threaded terminal on the
back
> of the alternator (the same terminal from which the thicker wire runs to
the
> "+"side of the ammeter gauge.
>
> My "How to Wire" booklet for GM products shows the wire from the #2
terminal
> of the alternator should be connected to the larger wire connecting the
> threaded "Bat" terminal on the alternator to the ammeter at some undefined
> point in the circuit closer to the ammeter. I wouldn't think it is correct
to
> connect the #2 terminal on the alternator directly to the "Bat" terminal
on
> the alternator with a three-inch of so length of wire as it is currently
> hooked up, although the charging system has been working OK with that
> connection. But if the wire from the #2 terminal is spliced into the wire
> from the "Bat" terminal to the ammeter at some point away from the
> alternator, does it make any difference?
>
> I'd very much appreciate advice on thow and where the wire from the #2
> terminal on the clip-on connector on the alternator should be connected.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> john doak in Baltimore, MD
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|