One thing that causes this kind of symptom is a bad "run" ignition circuit.
When the key is in the "start" position the coil gets 12 volt power. When you
release the key and it returns to the "run" position the coil gets it's power
from a different circuit that goes through what is usually referred to as a
"ballast" resistor.
Troubleshoot for this problem like this:
1. Remove distributor cap, leaving low voltage wire from coil to
distributor points attached as usual.
2. Turn engine over and stop with points closed.
3. Turn key to "run" (not "start") position.
4. Read voltage on coil primary (screw on) terminal that does NOT connect
to points.
Voltage should be around 6 volts DC.
5. If #4 measures 12 volts DC, the points are not closed (or are bad).
Fix this, then start
over.
6. If #4 measures below 4 volts DC the "run" circuit is bad. Typical
causes are:
a. bad ballast resistor.
It is typically mounted on the firewall.
Measure the voltage on both sides. If one side is 12
volts DC
and the other is less than 4 volts jump across
it with a
12 gauge wire and start the car. If all seems
OK replace the
ballast resistor.
b. bad ignition switch "run" position. If both sides of
the ballast
resistor read low, there is not enough (or any)
power getting
to the ballast resistor. Run a piece of 12
gauge wire from the
battery positive to either side of the ballast
resistor.
Start the car. If all is now well turn off the
car (you'll
have to remove the wire to the battery to get
it to stop)
and connect the end of the wire that you just
removed from
the battery to the "run" lug on your ignition
switch.
Start the car again. If all is well fix the
bad wiring from
the "run" lug to the ballast resistor. If it
didn't start
replace the bad ignition switch.
7. It is theoretically possible that the coil is the problem. It could
work OK with
the higher 12volts available in the "start" position, but not work in
with the
6 volts available in the "run" position, but if I were a betting man
I'd start with
the ballast resistor.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dane Bruce [mailto:nochay@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 11:54 AM
To: Phil Skinner; OLETrucks; Edselmail; Calnevas
Subject: [oletrucks] [OFFTOPIC] 1967 Dodge Starting Problem[/OFFTOPIC]
Hey Guys/Gals,
I know it's off topic, being a dodge, but...
We are trying to move my mom's 1967 dodge polara convertible. The engine
starts, runs for .02 seconds, then dies. Also, the car won't budge in
neutral. The car will not move with the transmission in neutral. The tranny
does work, because the neutral safety switch kicks in. It also won't start
in reverse. Does anyone know what causes this? Why does the engine start,
run for .02 seconds, then die? Your help is much sought after!!!!
Thanks,
Dane (Why I own fords! :) )
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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