I have a very close friend that works for NAPA, when I go to buy parts he
never lets me buy rebuilt or remanufactured parts for the same reasons
others on the list state. Seems there is no quality control at all for some
rebuilt companies--but to some folks saving 10-15 bucks however you save it
is worth it. Not me i always go new. --wayne
At 09:21 PM 2/24/03 -0800, Steve Hanberg wrote:
>I'm beginning to think I'd better buy a NEW master cylinder...
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joe Garcia" <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
>To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 8:00 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Re: [Early Suburban] Brakes, again...
>
>
> > I just replaced one that had an internal leak "past the piston cup" and
>the
> > fluid would squirt up like your talking about. The reason I know it was
>an
> > internal leak was that sometimes the pedal would be right up their like
> > normal and other times I would have to pump the pedal slightly to have the
> > same stopping power. I also pressed the pedal several times and then held
> > the pedal down and after about a minute the pedal moved every so slightly
> > toward the floor. I replaced the master cylinder, bleed the brakes and
>it's
> > like new again.
> >
> > Joe
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Hanberg" <Steve@OldSub.com>
> > To: <Old-Burb-club@yahoogroups.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 7:57 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Re: [Early Suburban] Brakes, again...
> >
> >
> > > It does appear that its leaking past the cover seal. And I guess when I
> > > said the back of the master cylinder, I should have clarified that this
>is
> > > an under-the-floor conversion, and I meant the side nearest the back,
> > which
> > > is the other end from where the plunger enters the cylinder. So there
>are
> > > no seals that could be leaking or anyhting like that, it has to be the
> > cover
> > > gasket.
> > >
> > > I've never seen one leak like that before, I just want to be sure I'm
>not
> > > missing something stupid...
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "John Hugentober" <gtojohn@woh.rr.com>
> > > To: <Old-Burb-club@yahoogroups.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 6:59 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Early Suburban] Brakes, again...
> > >
> > >
> > > > From: "Steve Hanberg" <steve@oldsub.com>
> > > > > The brake pedal on my 55.1 GMC Suburban went down about twice as far
> > as
> > > > normal recently, almost to the floor. One time it was fine, the next
> > was
> > > a
> > > > bunch different. I pulled the transmission cover so I could get at my
> > > > dual-master to start trouble-shooting. The small chamber was very low
> > on
> > > > fluid.
> > > > >
> > > > > I topped it off, and then had my son pump up and hold the peddle
>down,
> > > > while I looked underneath for leaks. Since I make the brake lines
> > myself,
> > > I
> > > > expected to discover one of my flared ends had failed. What I found
>was
> > > > fuild running down the back of the master cylinder.
> > > > >
> > > > > This is a new (rebuilt) master cylinder just a few months ago.
> > > Apparently
> > > > the lid isn't fitting tight enough to keep the fuild in.
> > > > >
> > > > > Could something else be going on here? I've watched fuild fountain
>up
> > > > when the pedal is released, but I'm surprised to have it leaking out.
> > I'm
> > > > thinking I need to get a new gasket, and perhaps even use two gaskets
>to
> > > be
> > > > sure its tight enough.
> > > > >
> > > > > But this solution seems too simple, and I'm afraid I'm missing
> > > something.
> > > > Anyone have any ideas?
> > > >
> > > > Steve,
> > > >
> > > > It may be a simple solution, you just need to verify that the fluid
>is
> > > > really sneaking past the cover seal and is not coming out through the
> > > piston
> > > > in the back of the MC. Close inspection of the rear of the unit
>should
> > > tell
> > > > this. If it is just leaking out past the cover seal, you may want
>to
> > > make
> > > > sure that the clamp is pressing firmly on the lid. You might need to
> > > remove
> > > > the clamp and bend it to apply more pressure on the lid. Or,
>sometimes
> > > > there is just dirt on the gasket or one of the sealing surfaces.
> > > >
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Link to Group Page at Yahoo Groups
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Old-Burb-club/
> > > >
> > > > To Unsubscribe send a BLANK e-mail to:
> > > > Old-Burb-club-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
Wayne Osborne
http://www.chevytrucks.org
http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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