John, thanks for the feedback.
What are the issues with the 700r4 tranny when rebuilding?
I'm assuming the this is a later tranny. Its been a LONG time
since I've dealt with anything Chevy so if these sound like
dum questions I appologize!
So a 3/4 or 1-ton rear pumpkin (chunk, diff, etc) from the later
units will bolt right into a 53 housing? If so that will greatly
simplify changing gear ratios.
It looks like the max weight of our towed race trailer is likely
to be in the 7000 lb range. So I'm assuming 3.90 or 3.73
gearing would be the better choices. Were those available in
the 3/4 or 1-ton trucks?
I have no problem fedexing my old front axle to you, of
course that would only happen if I win the lottery myself, in
which case I'd probably hand deliver it to you!!
I thought about dual tank fillers, one on each side but I doubt
that my wife would want to modify the truck in that way. We
both like the stock look but also like our creature comforts....!
Thanks for all the good info.
Brad
On 19 Nov 2002 at 19:36, jrdorsey wrote:
> Brad, good ideas.
>
> Tranny wise the turbo700r4 is a strong tranny when rebuilt right,
> Finding a rebuilder that can do it RIGHT may be hard. No national chain
> shops. B&M sells complete units built for towing but they are not cheap,
> but may be as cheap as having one rebuilt.
>
> The turbo 400 is pretty much bulletproof, but are getting rarer and no
> overdrive.
>
> I would not use a turbo 350 for a dedicated towing vehicle, no reason too
> when you can put a better unit in anyway as you are starting from scratch.
>
> My dream vehicle would be a cabover with a caddy 500 V8, turbo 400 with a
> gear vendors overdrive, if I ever win the lottery.
>
> The rear brakes are just fine they are modern type drum brakes, the only
> hard part would be finding drums if yours go bad. A word to the wise:
> DON'T have the drums turned, DON'T. Unless they are really rough, I mean
> rough, not grooved. A grooved drum will not hurt anything, the shoes will
> wear in to match the grooves. If you MUST have them turned take them to a
> machine shop, not an auto parts store and stress to them to remove as
> little metal as possible as they are irreplacable.
>
> The rear differential (chunk) will fit from 3/4 and 1 tons up to 1971
> (mostly). The later model trucks have much better ratios. I found one from
> a 1970 pickup that has 3.90 gears, much better than the original 5.14.
>
> the front suspension idea is good, fed-ex me your old axle ok? You'll pay
> the freight right? :-)
>
> the steering collunm can be cut off and a lower bearing put in. you can
> hook it to a u-joint from the new power steering box.
>
> stock ride height is nice, you don't have to jack it up to work on it!
>
> Oooohhh. Dual tanks! you can pull up to the pumps on either side,
> instead of just the passenger side which is different than almost EVERY
> modern vehicle that I drive so I keep forgetting and pulling up to the
> pumps on the wrong $^&*)! side and have to turn this LONG LONG &%$^&
> around In the GAS station with NO power $@%^ steering and accidentally
> back COMPLETLY over a $(*%# Toyota and ... and....Oh, OK, Sorry got a
> little carried away there, but I feel much better now. Whew.
>
>
> John Dorsey
> Wauchula FL
> http://www.strato.net/~jrdorsey
> '49 3800 Chevy Panel
> '52 640 GMC Firetruck
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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