I wrote approx. 2 weeks ago asking for advice with my brake problems since
converting to power brakes. Here's an update of what I've done but I'm
still not satisfied and need some help.
BACKGROUND:
'56 Chevy 1/2 ton stepside with stock suspension and brakes. Purchased a
power brake conversion consisting of a vacuum booster, master cylinder and
mounting bracket (under floor). Specified 4 wheel drum/drum brake system
when I ordered the conversion. Had a local garage install the system over
the winter months. They had to make some new lines for the front brakes
because they had so much trouble bleeding them with the new system. Also
purchased speed bleeders for all four wheel cylinders. Got truck back in
the spring, but didn't drive much as I was rewiring, installing power
steering and tilt steering column, new automatic transmission, lowered front
end by removing two leafs from front springs and smoothed the dash.
Finally got everything together and started seriously driving about 4-5
weeks ago. Immediately noticed the truck pulling to the right during hard
braking. Rear brake on driver's side smelled hot and eventually burnt the
new paint off the drum after approx. 300 miles. Removed both rear brake
drums and driver's side linings/shoes were 50% of the other side (both were
new last year). Thought driver's side rear may have been adjusted too
close, so readjusted both rear brakes and repainted driver's side drum.
After a test drive the same problem on the driver's side (drum hot to the
touch) compared to other wheels both front and rear. Suspected driver's
side rear wheel cyliner bad, removed (it WAS full of rust, one piston
stuck). Tip-off was jacking the rear end up, wheels turned fine until I
started the truck and applied brakes, driver's side would not move after
brakes engaged.
Replaced wheel cylinder (local AutoZone had one in stock for $10.85), rebled
brakes and readjusted all four wheels per specifications (adjust in until
drag, then back off 7 notches). Another test drive, SAME results. Took
truck back to local shop that did the conversion and complained, they
checked it over AND found when they installed the power conversion they had
to move one of the parking brake cable pulleys back about 2-3 inches on the
frame. Somehow this resulted in the parking brake on the driver's side rear
keeping the brake shoes engaged with the drum (when the brakes were applied,
but would later loosen up). Loosened the rear parking brake cables and
driver's side drum doesn't get hot anymore. WHEW!!
Test drove truck and it STILL pulls to the right during hard braking.
Almost feels like the rear brakes are trying to move the truck to the right.
Do I need a proportioning valve to keep the rear brakes from engaging too
early? I'm about ready to chuck it all and put in an IFS and Ford 9 inch
rear end with disk brakes all around. Am I overlooking something? Any
advice appreciated, sorry for the lengthy story but thought if I put the
details in it would save a bunch of questions later.
Carl Ham
'56 Chevy TF Stepside
Pontiac, IL
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