I am at a point in the rebuild where I need some answers to some points not
well covered in the manual.
1A) Piston rings - how should the compression rings be oriented with respect
to the gaps and wrist pins? I know which goes in which groove, and which side
it up, and believe the two gaps should be 180 degrees apart...but, should they
be located directly above the wrist pin, or 90 degrees to the wrist pin?
1B) Oil rings....how about the orientation of their gaps...both with respect
to the wrist pin, but also to each other and the spacer ring's gap?
2A) When trying to eliminate as much of the oil leakage, the areas that need
attention are the rear main seal, the timing cover seal, and the oil pan
seal(s). I plan to put a very small dab of RTV on the two ends of the rear
main halves, but nowhere else on any of the main caps...is this correct?
2B) The rubber seals that go across the front and rear cap, have tapered
feet, so I assume these are directly in contact with the block...BUT, the cork
oil pan seals overlap these...do I trim these to get the best fit I can
between block, cork gasket and the rubber feet? Of just put a liberal dab of
RTV in this area and let the torquing down of the oil pan, crush these pieces
together? I know to make sure all surfaces are as free of oil as possible so
the RTV can stick. Should I use any type of sealant on the rubber end cap
seals? Any type of cement on the cork seal?
3) I know I should flatten the areas around the oil pan hold down screws to
make sure they evenly seal...anything else I should do?
4) I know a sleeve is available to restore the surface of the harmonic
balancer where the cover seal rides...is this available at FLAPS, or just from
places like Chevy Duty?
That should do for now.
Thanks,
Rob
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