Paul:
This is from memory, which hasn't been too good lately:
The turn signal switch (new reproductions available)
must be installed first. If you need to replace the
switch and have not removed the old one yet, tie a 6'
long piece of scrap wire to the end of the wires for the
turn signal switch BEFORE you pull the switch out.
Tie the other end of the 6' scrap around the lower
part of the steering column so you do not loose the
end of the wire. When you pull the old turn signal
switch out disconnect the scrap wire, attach it to the
new turn signal switch wires and use the scrap wire to
pull the new wires down through the steering column.
The cancel gizmo with the two springs on it has a pin
on the underside that fits into a hole in the switch.
The screw that the cancel gizmo rotates on has a lock
washer that is put on the underside of the cancel gizmo.
This size of the lock washer is VERY important to the
proper operation of the turn signals. The screw has a
shoulder just after it passes through the cancel gizmo.
They shoulder tightens the lock washer into a depression
in the housing. If the lock washer is too large in
diameter it will not fit into the depression and will
cause the turn signals to bind when the screw is
tightened. Same problem occurs if the lock washer is
left off or if it is not thick enough when fully
compressed.
The cancel gizmo is activated by the turn signal lever,
which screws into the gizmo and has a lock nut to keep
it from backing out. I've never seen a 55.2-56 cancel
gizmo, but the 57-59 has the lever coming off at an
angle that matches the V of the steering wheel. My
guess is that the 55.2-56 has the lever flat, to match
the early steering wheel.
The cancel gizmo is cancelled by movement of the
steering wheel. On the backside of the steering wheel
you will find a piece that looks like a large washer
with a tab on one side. The tab contacts the cancel
gizmo to cancel it. If there is too much clearance
between the steering wheel and the cancel gizmo no
contact occurs and your turn signal won't cancel.
To change the clearance loosen the screw on the
underside of the turn signal switch housing below
the hole for the lever. This screw tightens a wedge
that locks the housing in place. Move the housing
to within 1/8" or so of the bottom of the steering
wheel and tighten the screw. If you have the whole
mess dis-assembled I would recommend replacing this
screw with an Allen head screw. It makes it MUCH
easier to adjust. If you have a Hydra-Matic (like
mine) there is very little clearance between this
screw and the collar that holds the top of the shift
linkage. Find the proper sized Allen wrench and cut
off the short end for proper clearance.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Moon [mailto:capt2th@tehama.net]
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 6:03 PM
To: Oletrucks
Subject: [oletrucks] turn signals on 55 2nd
Hi all,
Does anyone know where I might find info on the reassembly of the column
turnsignal apparatus? I think I may have it figured out, but I would feel
alot more comfortable if I knew I had all the parts, and in their right
places, before I assemble.
The Chevy Assembly manual and the Chevy Shop manual have absolutely no
reference to it. I can no longer buy the assembly, so I must restore what I
have.
If you have one, would you mind taking it apart and taking pictures for me?
Just kidding.
Paul of Red Bluff
2nd series 55 (anyone interested in pictures?)
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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