Fisheye, I think, is not what you get with pinholes in the bondo
patches...those are just referred to as pinholes...
Fisheye, is what you get when there is oil, or more likely, silicone on the
surface that is being painted...the paint will pull away from the
contaminant, resulting in a "fisheye". I don't think fisheye reducer will
help with pinholes...it is intended for the silicone issue. Or so I
believe.
To fix the pinholes, there are many products that will work, but most either
seem to use a finishing bondo (very very fine particles), or something like
spot filler (GM makes a blue product that is much better IMHO than the bondo
spot filler, but I can't think of what it is called...if interested, I can
look it up when I get home). With these products, you rub it over the area
with pinholes, it penetrates, you let it dry (the blue dries very fast),
then you lightly sand (these sand much easier than the bondo type but have a
tendency to pull out if the hole is too large).
Rob
My Zen Moment for the Day: I hate wearing Turtlenecks, it feels like you're
getting strangled by a real weak guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "kmm 1024" <kmm1024@hotmail.com>
To: <b_schluter@yahoo.com>; <a70ragtop@hotmail.com>;
<old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Painting questions
> I see what you mean by sanding the base first, but also the clear will
cover
> up a lot of things. I just painted my cab and had a problem with fisheyes
> (really small pinholes in patches everywhere), and I was able to use
fisheye
> reducer in the second coat, but it wasn't perfect yet, then when the clear
> was sprayed, it flowed and went flat.
>
>
> >From: Byron Schluter <b_schluter@yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: Byron Schluter <b_schluter@yahoo.com>
> >To: Rob <a70ragtop@hotmail.com>, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com,
> >_Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Painting questions
> >Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:34:28 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Rob,
> >
> >Check out the following website and I think it might
> >answer your question: www.project33.com. This guy is
> >building a 33 Ford 3 window coupe and documenting the
> >whole process, start to finnish, on the website. Look
> >in the section "construction" and find the section
> >where he paints the frame body color. He uses
> >base/clear coat process and talks about the exact
> >issue you've brought up. He was advised by a
> >professional car painter and the reasoning makes a lot
> >of sense.
> >
> >Good Luck,
> >
> >Byron
> >--- Rob <a70ragtop@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > Speaking of paint jobs, I'm hoping there is a
> > > painter out there who can answer
> > > this:
> > >
> > > If I want to go base/clear, is it possible to sand
> > > out the base coat so that
> > > it is "perfect" before the clear goes on? In other
> > > words, color sand the base
> > > coat as you would a single stage paint, with
> > > ultimately say a 400-600 grit
> > > wet-paper? Obviously that would leave the base
> > > sorta hazy, but when I've seen
> > > a base/clear job done, the base is already
> > > intentionally hazy (maybe "FLAT"
> > > would be a better word to call it?)...the haziness
> > > disappears when you put the
> > > clear on (sorta like what happens when you put a
> > > rock into water...dull colors
> > > are no longer dull).
> > >
> > > Seems to me, that unless you can make the base coat
> > > "perfect", any
> > > imperfections in the base, will be shown in the
> > > clear, and then, the repair is
> > > more problematic. I know that normally, the clear
> > > coat follows right on the
> > > heals of the base (within a couple of hours I
> > > believe). Is there a point when
> > > it is just plain too LATE to put clear on top of the
> > > base, or is it one of
> > > those situations, where it must either be within,
> > > say 2 hours, or if longer
> > > than that, then you must wait, say a week or longer,
> > > ie. there is a point when
> > > it is ok, then not ok, then becomes ok again given
> > > enough time for
> > > gases/vapors to bleed off. Any comments?
> > >
> > > Rob
> > >
> > > My Zen Moment for the Day: Duct tape is like the
> > > "Force." It has a light
> > > side and a dark side, and it holds the universe
> > > together.
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > > between 1941 and 1959
> >Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> >http://taxes.yahoo.com/
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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