Hi Charles,
Sorry I didn't respond to your posts to my previously used e-mail id at
"utm.net" They were my ISP for several years, however were acquired by
another larger provider who immediately raised the rates. It appears they
left my old e-mail id valid as punishment for not renewing with them.
E-mail sent to the old address will not bounce, so the sender will not be
aware I no longer have the account and assume I just ignored it, and of
course I had no reason to be checking the account.
The correct e-mail id and web page url are at the bottom in the sig.
> I am seriously thinking about doing the subject swap and have read the
>info on Joe's and Bob fischer's WEB sites. I have a question about motor
>mounts.
>
>I have already put in the motor mounts for the 350 (engine is already in
>the truck and running). I bought the mounts fro Jim Carter which are the
>kind that fit inside the frame rail and welded in. Will these interfere
>with the swap or will I have to use the mounts on the saddle?
I'm not familiar with the mounts from JC, but if they use the stock GM
(Chevy) triangle rubber/steel mount they may be welded into the frame rail
where the four bolts from the late model saddle need to penetrate the side
of the rail.
> Also, how
>easy is the swap with the engine in the truck if my existing mounts can be
>used?
I suspect the swap can be performed without removing the engine/tranny,
although probably easier with it out of the way. It would also be easier to
make the measurements to locate the new saddle without the front sheetmetal
in place, and as a bare minimum I would pull the LH fender and inner panel
to set up the steering box.
> Also, I noticed in Bob's article that the crank damper may be too
>close to the saddle if my existing mounts can be used. Is there any way to
>notch the saddle without materially weakening it?
The damper doesn't interfere with the saddle, it's directly under the
engine, but did come very close to the original crossmember/radiator mount.
I am using a larger diameter fluid damper on a mild 283, but the original
6" damper would have worked without problems. It was old, the ring was
separating from the hub and needed replacing anyway, so I went with the
newer stuff. I originally cut a notch for it in the crossmember, but later
welded the pieces removed back into place.
> Any other things I
>should watch out for or anticipate? Also, how long did it actually take to
>do the swap?
Took me about 3 1/2 months of part time (night / weekend) work for the
whole project but that includes building the motor, rebuilding a TH350
(twice, I left a thrust washer out the first time) and completely
rebuilding the front end. The front end/brakes/etc could be rebuilt prior
to taking the truck down. A couple years ago when I was contemplating doing
this, someone on this list indicated either he or a friend did this
operation in a weekend. Perhaps, but I doubt it.
Get back to me if you have any specific questions I might be able to help
with. This is our/my daily driver and gets plenty of use and has held up
very well.
"Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie Nelson
http://Bobsplayce.home.att.net e-mail -->r.fischerjr@att.net
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