Several ways,
1. Fill the hole with epoxy and let it set. Drill and tap the hole
for a smaller screw to leave some meat there with the epoxy.
2. Put a dab of epoxy on the threads and put the screw in as best
you can. When it sets, back the screw out and use a couple washers
under the head to develop the torque.
3. Get one of those expanding plastic plug dealies at a hardware
store (the kind that hold a screw in plaster or concrete) and insert
in the hole. Run the proper sized screw into it. A right diameter
piece of plastic tube may do the same thing.
4. Drill the same size hole deeper and tap it with a bottoming tap.
You should try for about 1/4 inch of fresh new threads. Make sure
there's enough metal there to do this.
5. Shove some aluminum foil in the hole between the screw and the
hole. The screw will pack it and wedge it in between the screw and
the wall.
6. Drill a hole through the wall and use a set screw to hold a piece
of threaded rod in the hole. Use a nut on the other end.
7. Tap the hole for a metric thread that is just a little bigger
than the original screw ( 7 mm for 1/4" (6.4 mm) etc.). (Don't quote
me that 7mm dia screws are available.)
All of these have worked at least once for me. Good luck.
Remember that JB weld is supposed to take 16 hours to cure completely.
Bruce K
57 3200
MN
At Friday, 15 February 2002, you wrote:
>Hi group:
>Recently purchased a hood bird for my 57 GMC and when I went to
mount it
>discivered that the two back mounting holes were stripped out.
Well I filled
>the holes with JB weld, drilled and retapped, no luck holding.
Then I tried
>permatex thread restorer (the epoxy stuff where you screw in and
out the bolt
>in five munutes and then let cure for 30 minutes, says it will take
150 ft.
>lbs. of torque - yea right!), no luck holding. Hole walls probably
too thin
>to go a size larger and retap.
>
>OK group lets hear some suggestions!!!!
>
>David
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
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