I'm thinking about ordering this TDC indicator for $21. It whistles when the
cylinder is at TDC. So simple it's brilliant!
http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe?T1=46048&UID=2002013012425776
&UREQA=1&FNM=20
-Dana
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Gray" <william.gray@snet.net>
To: "'William Gray'" <william.gray@snet.net>; "'Rob J.'"
<rjjmsj@earthlink.net>; <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; "'_Oletrucks'"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Adjusting valves
> I'm resending this - got an error message 1st try.
>
> Bill Gray
> william.gray@snet.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Gray [mailto:william.gray@snet.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 11:44 AM
> To: 'Rob J.'; 'old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com'; '_Oletrucks'
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Adjusting valves
>
>
> There are several ways to get the other pistons at TDC, after you've
> established you're at TDC FIRING STROKE on #1. Here's a couple:
>
> Keep on rotating in the RUNNING DIRECTION; every 1200 the next piston in
> the firing order will be at TDC, firing stroke. Get/ make a degree
> wheel for reference unless you have well calibrated eyeballs. This is
> easier on 8 cyl. engines, where the angle between is 900 (normally), or
> 4s, where it's 1800 (normally), much easier to eyeball than 120.
>
> Or-
>
> Get/make a piston stop. I'll assume you want to make one; if you wanted
> to just buy new stuff you'd be on newtrucks.com, not oletrucks. Take the
> electrodes and ceramic out of an old spark plug, you want just the steel
> shell. Hammer work. Find the biggest bolt that'll fit thru the shell.
> Grind the end of the bolt nice and round so you won't damage your
> pistons. Set up engine at #1 TDC firing stroke. Screw plug shell into
> #1 hole. Insert rounded bolt until it touches piston (make sure bolt is
> long enough it doesn't fall in). Mark bolt relative to top of plug
> shell. Remove bolt and shell. Set up bolt and shell for welding or
> brazing. Position bolt in shell so it'll go about 1/16" deeper in the
> hole than your mark. Weld/braze assy. Maybe you could drill and tap
> the plug shell instead of welding/brazing - that way it's adjustable....
> Now, starting at #1 TDC firing, you can use the piston stop on each hole
> in firing order to get it to (or real close to) TDC. Come up on it slow
> and careful so you don't mar the piston or bend the stop. The 1/16"
> difference to true TDC won't hurt valve lash adjustment; the lifter is
> on the cam's base circle this close to TDC. Should be OK for setting
> ignition timing initially too.
>
> Bill Gray
> william.gray@snet.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob J.
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 9:03 PM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com; _Oletrucks
> Subject: [oletrucks] Adjusting valves
>
>
> I know I should know this, but need a refresher. How do I adjust the
> rocker arms to set my valves on my '58 235? I know I need to get them
> when each piston is at its own TDC, but don't remember how to find it
> for any but #1. I can find TDC for #1, but don't remember how to take
> it from there. I know I will set them initially when cold to get close,
> and then bring engine to operating temp, and adjust them to hot while
> the engine is running. So, can anyone give me a refresher in valve
> adjusting 101? OH, yeah...I have solid lifters.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rob
>
> My Zen Moment for the Day: Always remember, you're unique! Just like
> everyone else. oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
> 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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