Hi, thanks for the help,
maybe we're not on the same page because I can't find any "crush sleeve".
When I took off the nut, the only thing behind the flange (the thing the
drive shaft connects to at the u-joint) was a tapered roller bearing.
the nut that holds the flange on had a washer as you describe behind it.
All I did was change out the seal. Also, I see no mention of a crush
sleeve in the book. Should I just tighten the nut to 20 in-lbs and check
as described below? thanks again...
-alfie
On Tue, 22 Jan 2002, Wayne Osborne wrote:
> If wrong i'm sure someone will correct me..... Thats sounds about the
> correct amount of torque..This setting is directly related to the tightness
> of the rear end gear mesh-to tight as mentioned below and it'll overheat
> and fail. Here's a bit more info the subject: Search the archives for many
> other emails on the subject.. Rear end setups can be tricky as to why
> most folks let the pros do it. A bad setup and you can ruin a 400 dollar
> ring/pinion gears--wayne
>
> be sure new crush sleeve is used. be sure big flat washer that goes
> behind the retaining nut is used.......(i have seen them left out).....use a
> new retaining nut.........use lock tight red on the threads when you
> install the nut......it takes about 200 ft-lbs of torque to crush the
> sleeve......
> so i use my 3/4 drive socket and 4ft handle to do the pulling.....i have a
> open end wrench that fits the outside of the yoke to hold it......i let it
> turn up against the floorboards or frame to lock it in
> place..........carefully
> turn down the nut crushing the sleeve until there is no fore and aft move
> ,ment in the pinion shaft......turn just a little bit tighter......so it takes
> about12-15 inch-pounds of torque to twist the pinion shaft in direction
> of operation............test drive it......under35 mph........ for 35
> mins....and check the housing near the yoke for heat buildup.....you should
> be able to hold your hand on the housing with no pain...............if you
> assemble it too tight it will run hot and fail From:jerry mungon
>
>
> At 09:59 AM 1/22/02 -0700, you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >I'm trying to figure out how tight to make the pinion flange nut on my '58
> >rear axle. The manual asks you to record the torque it takes to spin the
> >axle. When you put the pinion flange nut back on, the manual says to
> >incrimentally torque the nut while checking the preload against the
> >previously recorded torque. this is a very small number (<20 in-lbs!), so
> >I'm finding it hard to believe that I need to only torque this nut to such
> >a small setting. The Book makes no mention of a preload torque. Has
> >anyone encountered this situation? Thank you.
> >-alfie
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> Wayne Osborne
> 1956 Chevy Pickup
> LaGrange Ga.
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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