These things are actually pretty forgiving compared to today's engines.
First, yes, you had a blown head gasket. No doubt about it.
Second, yes, you can reuse the head bolts. New ones should be readily
available from someone like NAPA, especially if you have the old
ones for a sample.
Third, normally if you torque the bolts down correctly with a torque
wrench to specs, Don't forget to chase the threads in the head, replace
any bolts that are scratched or have gummed up threads, and use some
anti sieze on the threads. For the ones that go into the water chamber,
there is a special sealer. I would not recommend RTV. Also for
this I do not recommend RTV or other gasket sealer for the gasket
surface, unless you want to use a dot of it in a couple spots away
from the cylinders to stick the gasket to the block.
For putting the head in place, I recommend setting the gasket on
the block and putting a head bolt in the head at each end. An engine
hoist makes this easy but it can be done with two people. Drop the
head in close, start the two bolts, and let it down the rest of the
way. It should line up pretty good.
Finally, don't go cheap on your torque wrench. This is one tool
that it is absolutely critical that it be right.
Bruce K
57 3200
MN
At Friday, 18 January 2002, you wrote:
>Ok, pretty sure my problem was a blown head gasket. Pulled the
head and the
>gasket seems to indicate that that is the case, but I don't have
a lot of
>experience reading signs. Nice clean copper color except between
#2 and #3
>and between #4 and #5. There, the gasket was a dark brown/black color,
>which I would guess would indicate something was happening there, that
>wasn't occuring elsewhere, ie. maybe either combustion gases causing
the
>darker color, or possibly water stains? I'll be taking the gasket
with me
>tomorrow to the machine shop when I take the head to have it magnafluxed
and
>checked for flatness, and have them see if they can read the gasket
to tell
>me what might have been happening. Not really any signs that water was
>getting into the chambers, as al cylinders had about the same amount of
>carbon buildup...so I suspect, the problem was the combustion gases
getting
>into the water jacket. I finally saw the bubbles (lots) in the
rad. When
>the radiator is very full, you don't see them...but if the level
is down
>about 1/2 - 1 inch, they are very apparent. I guess I would simply
have
>been checking with the rad topped off.
>
>However, I think I need some suggestions on the best way to replace
the new
>head gasket. That head is very heavy, and since there are no alignment
pins
>to hold the gasket in place while I try to manuever the head onto
the block,
>does anyone have any useful suggestions on the best way to try this
with the
>engine in the truck...last time I did this, the engine was out...much
>easier. I think I may try to position my body in the engine compartment
in
>order to be able to lift the head onto the block. Very difficult
to do from
>outside the fender (too heavy to hold the head with arms outstretched,
and
>not really very easy to position two people on opposite sides.
Just getting
>the head off was difficult...and that was when it really didn't
matter if
>the head gasket was maybe scratched or slightly damaged in the process.
The
>reverse will need to NOT damage the head gasket in any way, so if
anyone has
>tried this with the engine in the truck, please let me know how
you did it.
>
>Oh, one more item. When I removed the head bolts, I was very surprised
that
>it took very little force to loosen them...seems it should have been
>somewhat difficult, right? I know I never retorqued them after
the first
>500 or so miles as I was not aware at the time I rebuilt the engine
that I
>should have done that, and then just never did as everything seemed
to be
>fine until just recently. Obviously, if they were a bit on the
loose side,
>that certainly would have helped to lead to a blown head gasket.
So, what
>I'm wondering, is the force needed to loosen them not necessarily
gonna be
>all that much? I will be chasing all the threads, both in the block,
and of
>the head bolts.
>
>Is it possible to still get replacement head bolts from a FLAP?
I almost
>torqued a head off one the last time I did this, and don't want
to risk that
>again if I can help it. How safe is it generally to reuse head bolts?
>
>Finally, I believe that only the number 1 bolt enters the water
jacket...is
>that correct? (By #1, I'm referring to the center bolt, nearest
the outside
>(passenger side of the block). So, if correct, then that is the
only one I
>would need to put a dab of RTV on the threads, right?
>
>TIA,
>
>Rob
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
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