Joe,
Do you have any pictures of what the door looks like with the bear claw
latches? When I look at the latch and the current 1949 door, it looks like
the latch should go almost completely on the outside of the door. Either
that or the "pin" would need to stick out several inces from the frame. I
cant picture how these would work on these old doors.
Thanks,
Bob Chansler
"joe"
<chevy1@jps.net> To: "Old Chevy Pickup"
Sent by: <oldchevypickup@hotmail.com>,
"oletrucks"
owner-oletrucks@auto <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
x.team.net cc:
Subject: Re: [oletrucks]
More on doors
11/06/2001 01:12 PM
Please respond to
"joe"
I installed the larger Bear Claw Latches with the metal hardware your
describing on my Nephews 48 GMC a few months ago.
Tips"
1. Adjust the door to line up the body lines with the cab before you begin
to install the new Bear Claw latches. This way your able to adjust the
door
later and still be within the movement area of the striker bolt. If your
hinge pins are worn, replace them first!
2. Remember where your gas tank is located.....right behind the seat if
stock so be careful with the welder and sparks. I drained the tank and
removed the seat and carpet.
3. Tack the parts on first and try opening and closing the door a few times
before final welding.
I installed the latch in almost the same location as the original "maybe a
tad higher" due to clearance problems with the glass vertical guide
channel.
Although his was a 48 with the metal frame around the glass and yours only
has the glass "No Frame", the distance is still the same between the back
of
the vertical guide and the latch mechanism. See, your going to run into
clearance problems with the back of the latch mechanism and the glass
vertical guide channel in the door. What I did was make sure to reinstall
the vertical guide channel and even have the glass rolled halfway down to
make sure the channel bolted back on to the door and didn't touch the latch
mechanism. Then with the latch mechanism bolted to the metal frame you
purchased, slide it into the door and tack it to the door jam. I took a
piece of a cardboard and taped it to the back of the latch so I'd be sure
to
have some additional clearance. You don't want to have the latch mechanism
sticking to far out of the door because then your going to run into
clearance problems with the jamb.
I just took a marker and with the door closed marked roughly where the
latch
center was to located the striker. You'll have to do a little more
fabrication on the jam side to attach the striker hardware then you think
but it's not that hard.
The Bear Claw Latches close really nice! You'll have to get use to closing
the doors and constantly reminding the passengers how easy they close.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Old Chevy Pickup <oldchevypickup@hotmail.com>
To: chevy1@jps.net <chevy1@jps.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More on doors
>Joe,
>
>Have you installed Bear Claw latches in any of the trucks you have worked
>on? Not sure if your '50 has them. I was wondering what approach I
should
>take on my 55 first series. I bought the installation pieces that the
latch
>attaches to so I just have to cut out a rectangle but what I was wondering
>if you had any tips or suggestions on getting the door and the cab parts
to
>line up the first time.
>
>Thanks!!!
>
>Dan Jacobsen - PA
>
>'49 3100 327/powerglide
>'55.1 3100 rodstoration 350/350 MII
>'48 4400 Front sheet metal on a '87 chassis (still need a cab)
>'35 Dodge Business Coupe - All original
>'35 Dodge Business Coupe - Complete parts car - Future streetrod project
>
>
>
>>From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
>>Reply-To: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
>>To: "Ric McAnulty" <ric_mcanulty@yahoo.com>, <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] More on doors
>>Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:00:16 -0800
>>
>>Their are two ways to go about getting the door back in the same
location.
>>
>>a) Drill a hole in the door and through the hinge "behind the door
panel.
>>This will serve as a alignment pin to line the door back up to the same
>>position. Remember to do both top and bottom hinge.
>>
>>b) Take a pencil or marker and trace around the bolt holes and draw a
>>vertical line on the outer edge of the hinge where it goes into the door
>>pocket for a reference point.
>>
>>If your taking only the door off and leaving the hinge on "my preference"
>>the only adjustment that you'll be dealing with is the position of the
door
>>in the opening "forward or backward adjustment" and not the up and down
>>movement.
>>
>>The AD's are also very easy to set the door back in position at the point
>>because all you really have to do is slide the door back on the hinges,
>>install the bolts "loosely"and slowly close the door so it closes on the
>>striker. It should actually line itself back up and then all you have to
>>do
>>is tighten the bolts down and your done.
>>
>>Joe
>>The Resto Rod Shop
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Ric McAnulty <ric_mcanulty@yahoo.com>
>>To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>Date: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 7:22 AM
>>Subject: [oletrucks] More on doors
>>
>>
>> >How difficult is it to remove the doors form my '50 at
>> >the cab mounting and then get back on and aligned
>> >properly? Do they only go back into one spot or is
>> >there some adjustment? Thought it would be easier to
>> >replace the door gasket if it were off the truck lying
>> >on saw horses so that I could wire brush the door jam
>> >to replace the gasket. Would also rebuild the hinge
>> >pins at the same time.
>> >
>> >Thanks
>> >Ric McAnulty
>> >'50 3100 5-window custom cab
>> >w / '57 235-6 4 speed
>> >Find a job, post your resume.
>> >http://careers.yahoo.com
>> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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