Be careful.
Hot dipped galvanizing is inexpensive but it involves lots of heat. I am
pretty sure that the heat will distort light gauge sheet metal like we have
on the trucks something awful. For that reason, I would do a test run on
some non-essential part. Perhaps you could just have the galvanizer clean
the parts if his cleaning process is colder than the galvanizing process.
If it does work, there are primers that will stick well to galvanizing and
the paint and metal will last almost forever without rusting.
Michael Lubitz
'46 3/4 ton stock pick up, "Buddy"
'48 three window hot rod
Austin, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "BKN" <oldtrucknut@prodigy.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Cc: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 8:55 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] rust removal/galvanizing
> Here's an off the wall question:
> I was considering having the cab,doors, hood and front fenders of my 51
> "dipped" to remove rust, but unfortunately, while extremely thorough this
> process is also very expensive ($1100+).
> A buddy of mine suggested that I take the parts to a local galvanizing
plant;
> I called and they said that they would also dip the pieces for rust
removal,
> then galvanize the entire thing. It sounded crazy until he told me that
the
> whole thing would cost around $50-$75, and short of the galvanized metal
all
> over the cab, would basically be the same thing (both will remove all rust
and
> any plastic filler in the dipped pieces).
> Does this sound like a good idea? I guess my biggest concern would be
> painting (when I get to that point); any idea if paint will adhere to
> galvanized metal?
> If anyone has any ideas on this, I'd appreciate your opinion. Also, if
this is
> a viable option, what would I need to do for paint prep?
> Thanks
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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