I did my first engine rebuild with a set of wooden blocks to hold the engine
block while I cleaned & reassembled, but a real hassle when needing to flip
the block (like to put crank in, then back to put pistons & rods in, then
back to attach rods to crank----you get the idea). Buy a $50 stand, but
heed the earlier threads warnings about center of gravity & footing of the
stand. I rented a hoist the first time, borrowed a hoist the second time
(to buy is $200 or more). I now own one, but wish I got one that the
outriggers collapse on (mine stays assembled & takes up a LOT of room).
Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-window
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chico Woodhill" <chico_woodhill@punkass.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 3:06 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Engine Removal
> I'm pulling the 235 splasher from my '49 3100 to paint both engine and
> firewall. The fenders and radiator are off. Questions:
>
> How much does the engine weigh?
>
> Where should I connect the hoist chain?
>
> I want to put it into a pickup bed for transit. Should I construct some
kind
> of mount or bed, or just lay it on its side? Will the oil pan dent if I do
> this?
>
> Are there any decent (i.e., cheaper) alternatives to buying an engine
stand
> for the work?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Chico
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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