Crank only, no rods? Was the block line bored? All the caps back in the
same spot?
Hmmn, Instead of plastigaue I'd first torque each cap down (without crank)
and use a dial bore gauge to make sure all are round.
Take a mic and spin it around each crank journal, see if you get tighter as
you go.
Could be the crank is a little off, as is the line bore.
> [Original Message]
> From: Richard Kinas <rkinas@ctinet.net>
> To: Old Trucks List <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/9/01 5:47:29 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] 283 rebuild sadness
>
> Ok all you motor heads......
>
> I just got my 59 283 back from the machine shop :) I had to bore 60
> thousandths over, the crank had spun a bearing and could not be reused, no
> problem new steel crank kit. Any way, upon initial assembly, crank bearing
> saddles were cleaned, bearings were wiped down, etc (i.e. all mating
> surfaces were perfectly clean) installed bearings in block once in, lube
> them up with new oil. Set the crank in place, all is fine. Installed the
> bearings in the caps lubed them with oil and set them in place. Lets see
> caps are facing front... in the proper order...OK ready to tighten.
> Initially tightened to finger tight on all caps. Quick check of crank,
spins
> freely. Tightened all caps to 30 ft-lbs. Crank still spins freely.
Tightened
> all caps to 60 ft-lbs. Crank still spins freely. I'm feeling pretty good
at
> this point. I better spin the crank all the way around instead of just
> rocking it just to be sure. Yikes, the crank spins freely 3/4 of a turn
then
> binds for 1/4 and spins freely again:( This sounds like an out of round
> crank journal or saddle. Tomorrow I will plastigage the bearings dry on
the
> top and bottom to tri and find the culprit. Does any body have any other
> ideas?
>
> Thanks for any tips.
>
> Rich Kinas
> 59 Fleetside
> Orlando, FL
> ____
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> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
--- Mike
--- passnb4u@earthlink.net
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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