Greg,
The voltage reducer goes between the hot side of your key switch and
the empty side terminal of the fuel gauge. The gas tank sender wire
goes to the full side terminal of the fuel gauge. Don't get these
backwards or you will cook your gauge.
Quick trouble shooting:
Hook up the fuel gauge as described above without connecting the tank
sender wire on the full side. Turn on the ignition. The gauge
should read full. If it doesn't, the gauge is probably bad. Check
to make sure that gauge housing has a good ground and that the empty
side terminal is getting power (6v).
Running 12 volts through a six volt fuel gauge will fry the gauge, so
I hope you haven't done that.
If you're unsure that your resistor will protect your fuel gauge, get
a voltage reducer designed for the job:
Voltage reducers for AD fuel gauges include the Runtz. from Fifth
Avenue Antique Auto Parts (fifthave@oz-online.net), Part# EL110
Voltage reducer from Jim Carter's Antique Auto Parts, and I
understand J.C. Whitney has a Regulated Voltage Reducer for use on
gauges.
Of these I personally would go with the Runtz. Randy from Fifth
Avenue can be quite helpful in these matters.
Another alternative (especially if the gauge is cooked) is to have
the gauge rebuilt to 12 volts. American Classic Truck Parts will do
this for you for $65 and then you won't have to worry about your
resistor or voltage reducer failing somewhere down the road.
Barrett Revis
Sparks, NV
'53 3105
'48 3105
the fewer the moving parts, the less there is to go wrong...
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