That glue can be picked up at your local Foreign auto parts store or Machine
shop. If you have a parts store or shop that deals with VW they use the
same product to assemble their engines. Just look in the adhesive section
for a little 4" tall bottle "sometimes called Gasket Cinch" ....Spelling?
To help those metal valve covers seal what you can purchase some longer
metal tabs that fit on the valve cover right under the bolts. Those longer
tabs are 4 to 5" longer than the stock 1/2" metal tabs the factory supplies.
They really help disperse the load of the bolt and seal the valve covers.
What you need to do first when the valve cover is removed is to hammer the
area of the bolt flat again because it's usually dimpled in toward the head
from over tightening and if you just put on a new gasket you won't get the
required pressure on the gasket a it will leak.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Byron Schluter <b_schluter@yahoo.com>
To: mark@noakes.com <mark@noakes.com>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Valve cover leaks
>Mark,
>
>Where did you purchase the Aviation Permatex sealer?
>I have an 84 3/4ton Silverado Pickup with the 350 and
>the standard leaky valve covers. In fact my family
>has owned mostly Chevy products over the years and
>they all had leaky valve covers. I am interested in
>trying this idea on my 84. I go through about 1 qt of
>oil per week due to this leak. I'm also going to buy
>a pair of after market cast aluminum covers. They are
>much thicker, especially around the gasget surfaces,
>than stock stamped tin covers.
>
>Byron
>--- mark@noakes.com wrote:
>> I'm sure this is a heresy that will stir the ire of
>> several on the list and I agree that the most
>> important first item is to make sure that the metal
>> surfaces that the gasket mates to are as flat and
>> clean as possible and I also agree that the regular
>> gasket sealer goo isn't much good, but WHEN ALL ELSE
>> FAILS. . .
>>
>> I drove Corvairs for almost 15 years (and still have
>> my first one--66 Monza since July 1974 but it's
>> restored and rarely driven now) and learned how to
>> deal with pesky oil leaks. I brushed a thin coat of
>> aviation permatex on both sides of the gasket and on
>> the head and on the valve cover (oil pan, etc. . .).
>> I went years w/o any leaks. It works ok with cork,
>> paper, or rubber gaskets. It has a slight gluing
>> effect, ie, it will hold pesky gaskets in place so
>> you can bolt things down, but not so much so that
>> you can't pry things loose with light effort. Done
>> right, you shouldn't even see it from the outside.
>>
>> I'm sure I'll get rebuked for this one, but I've
>> used it for years sucessfully.
>>
>>
>> Mark Noakes
>> 58/56 Chevy Suburban
>> 59 GMC Suburban
>> Knoxville, TN
>>
>> On Wed, 15 August 2001, MKlepp4335@cs.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>>
>> > Do all reproduction (chromed) valve covers leak?
>> I have talked to several
>>
>> > people with varying degrees of leaks. I have a
>> Chrome 216 cover on my 235
>>
>> > but am not happy with the fit. Does anyone have
>> an original 216 cover that
>>
>> > doesn't/didn't leak for sale? Let me know how
>> much and where you are.
>>
>> > Thanks.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > Mike Klepp
>>
>> > '48 3100
>>
>> > Wichita Falls, TX
>>
>> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
>> between 1941 and 1959
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
>> between 1941 and 1959
>Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
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>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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