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Re: [oletrucks] adjusting my steering box

To: "Brian _" <pkupman57@hotmail.com>, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] adjusting my steering box
From: Wayne Osborne <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 11:51:33 -0400
Hi,
   I keep alot of material from the list over the years and no one can
explain it better that Jim Forbes---Here how to do it....  --wayne


Since the steering adjustment is similar, I'll go thru a quick layman's
version...but, you will of course eventually need to overhaul the gear,
as the bushings are most likely worn out, at the least.  There are two
adjustments, the worm bearing tension, and the gear mesh adjustment. 
First, jack up the truck so the front wheels are off the ground, so the
steering is free to turn.  Put jack stands under the frame!

The worm bearings are adjusted by loosening the big lock nut, then
turning the bearing housing.  On the 59 and older trucks, this
adjustment is at the bottom of the box, at the front.  On the 60-newer
trucks, look at the top of the box, where the steering shaft (to the
steering wheel) sticks out.  Usually a hammer and blunt punch will
loosen the locknut.  The bearings should be adjusted to get a few
inch-pounds of drag on the worm gear (steering wheel), but you can
adjust it by tightening up to remove the play, then go just a smidgen
tighter..and tighen the locknut securely.  

Then, adust the gear mesh, which is a slotted screw with a 5/8" hex
locknut.  Get the steering centered (wheels straight ahead), and loosen
the locknut.  Gradually tighten the adjusting screw in, while frequently
checking the steering play by turning the steering wheel back and forth
a turn or two...but leave it centered when adjusting.  Evenually, you
will take up the slack, unless the gears/bushings are really worn, in
which case the adjusting screw will go all the way into the box!  (not
good).  Tighten till the slack is all gone, then add about a half turn
of preload to it.  If all is well, you should feel the steering get just
a little bit harder as you pass thru the center of the steering wheel's
travel.  Tighten the locknut securely, and enjoy the "new" feel of
driving your truck.

Also, when you finally get around to rebuilding the gear, you will want
to have the shop manual for reference, so you can accurately adjust it. 
A few years ago I bought a few tubes of GM steering gear lube from the
local dealer...I have one in the shop with the part number on it, I
think, if anyone is interested.  I don't know if it's still available,
but it may be.  This lube is neat, it's half way between grease and
oil.  Oil is too thin and leaks out, but grease is too thick and won't
properly lube the recirculating balls.  Use the right stuff!

Jim






At 11:54 PM 8/10/01 -0700, Brian _ wrote:
>hi all,
>   ive just finished lowering my truck (i took two leaves out of my 6 leaf 
>spring pack) and it rides lower and MUCH smoother, i also took the POs 
>overload springs off the rear, and now it doesnt bounce around as much, even 
>though i dont have a bed right now. my ball joints and king pins are all 
>new,,, i have new shocks, and power disc brakes too. the last thing now is 
>my steering. i was going to get power steering, but lack of money has 
>post-poned that until later. right now id like to know how, exactally to 
>adjust my original steering box? ive heard of people doing it, but i have no 
>idea what to do. so, if someone could, explain, from start to finish, how do 
>adjust my box, please?
>also, its a 1957 chevy 3200, with origianl box and I-beam.
>
>
>thanks
>Brian M
>Atwater, CA
>'57 Chevy 3200
>'00 Dodge Neon
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
Wayne Osborne
1956 Chevy Pickup
LaGrange Ga.
http://www.chevytrucks.org
http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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