Mark -
Your dealing with those good ole parts made when steel was steel and not
Pepsi cans, so it's going to be heavy!!
I'll give you a condensed version of what you need to do to prep the frame
for the new suspension:
Pull the engine and tranny as an assembly. Maybe you can attach the chain
at the bell housing area and pull it out their?
1) Place your frame in the area that the work will be completed.
2) Leave the tires on the axles to aid in removing the suspension parts.
3) Jack the frame up and place jack stands just behind the front spring rear
perch and in front of the rear springs front perch. Then lower the frame on
the jack stands, the tires should be off the ground a little bit.
Rearend Removal:
a) Place a floor jack on the center of the rearend housing for support.
b) You basically want to remove the spring shackle hardware at the rear of
the frame so the spring can be lowered to the ground. The means removing
all the spring hardware so the rearend is independent of the springs. When
your done the springs should be laying on the ground and the rearend hanging
on the floor jack.
c) Loosen the collar at the rear of the transmission and slide the bell
"Round end" back to gain access to the u-joints to disengage the torque tube
from the tranny.
d) If you lower the rearend to the ground, you can grasp the front of the
torque tube by the tranny and walk the rearend out and away from the
frame.Loosen the rear leaf spring shackle to frame hardware and the rearend
to spring bolts to allow the spring to lower to the ground.lower the frame
on the jack stand
e) Don't forget to disconnect the emergency brake cables and brake flex
line before walking the rearend out!!!
Front Suspension:
a) Place the floor jack under the center of the axle and raise it slightly
"tires should be off the ground".
b) Unbolt the shackle bolts, brake flex lines on each side and drag link
from the steering arm.
c) Unbolt the front spring shackle and remove it to lower the front of the
spring to the ground.
d) Lower the floor jack and wheel out the front suspension
This is basically the quick version of what you want to do to remove the
suspension with the least amount of disassembly.
Try and have a container handy to store the parts as I'm sure someone could
use them on their project down the road.
I guess once the big items are removed you can start cleaning the frame and
inspecting it for cracks. You'll usually see some cracks where the spring
perches are riveted to the frame or under the cab area and tranny
crossmember location. If you find some cracks just drill a 1/8" hole at the
end of the crack and when the welder shows up he can cut out the metal along
the crack line and weld it back up.
Mustang II Suspension:
Mark are you planning to tack in the front suspension and then have a welder
come over and fully weld in everything?
Joe Garcia
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Mintmier <tenisguy@gte.net>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; tenisguy@gte.net
<tenisguy@gte.net>
Date: Sunday, July 08, 2001 5:40 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Engine & Drivetrain Removal x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>I finally got the cab removed from the frame of my 1950 pickup over the
>4th of July holiday. Not only did it take me longer than I expected to
>get it ready to lift off, but it seemed a lot more difficult (i.e.
>HEAVY) than I thought a lot of you had made it sound in the past, even
>with the doors, seat, and everything else that could be removed taken
>out. Anyway, I'm ready for the next phase, and could use some advice
>from those who know since the shop manual is so pitiful in some areas.
>I'm going to have a professional welder weld in a Heidt's IFS and a 1979
>Trans Am rearend on monoleaf springs, and I'm sure I'll have a question
>or two at that point. My question now is what is the best way to remove
>the engine and the rearend/driveshaft? I have a 1-ton engine lifter,
>but I didn't know if I should try to lift the engine by the two head
>bolts like the shop manual shows, or if I should just throw a chain
>around it, or if there is a better way. I'll be removing the engine and
>transmission as a unit. Any detailed advice would be great! Also, does
>the driveshaft just pull out from the back of the transmission? As you
>all know, since it has a closed driveshaft, the driveshaft and the
>rearend seem to be one unit. When I lift the transmission (and engine)
>out, will it just pull off from the driveshaft, or do I have to do any
>unbolting first? Sorry for what many may consider basic questions, but
>I'm pretty much just figuring this out as I go and can use all the help
>I can get. Thanks for your help.
>
>Mark Mintmier
>1950 3100
>1952 3100 parts truck
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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