Use some emery cloth to ensure you did not gouge the edge where the seal
first goes in or the area where it will be seated. Lightly use the emery
cloth, the original seals were put in using permatex or shellac so there
will be some hard pieces of the permatex still attached to the area that the
seal will seat. Do not sand it so you cause an indentation, just make sure
it is smooth, check it with your finger, so when you do put the seal in it
will seat and go in evenly. The old bearing or race will work perfect when
seating the seals or new races as they are the perfect size. My father
showed me this trick back in the 60's and used it alot with his race cars in
the 50's and 60's, he never had a seal become damaged. He used house paint
around the edge with a large Qtip instead of the shellac or Permatex, he
never had a leak that I can remember.
Jon 50 3104
Chicago burbs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike " <passnb4u@earthlink.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; "Mike the Langman" <langman10@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 11:50 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Difficulty with rear oil seals
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Mike the
> Langman
>
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>
> Sent: 6/6/01 9:14:49 AM
>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Difficulty with rear
> oil seals
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm getting very frustrated!
>
>
>
> I am installing new rear axle oil seals (PN CR18965) on my 1/2 ton Chevy
>
>
> (the previous ones, original I believe, soaked my brakes in 1/8 in of
> gunk.)
>
> Well, this is a mother of a tight fit, at least for
> me. I've already
>
> destroyed a couple attempting to get them in the housing. TIP:
> Don't follow
>
> what the original owners manual says by applying Permatex to the OD of the
>
>
> oil seal! I believe the new repos come with a type of seal
> already, and
>
> with so little room to spare the Permatex was just too
> much. I've worked
>
> very hard and carefully (believe me, at $20 a pop, these aren't something
> to
>
> just blow off.) I try to start them by tapping around the edges,
> then once
>
> they are centered and started, I can use a PVC section and drive them in,
> at
>
> least that's the way the wheel bearings went on. I've even tried
> heating
>
> the axle housing and chilling the seals. I don't want to just
> keep
>
> destroying more.
>
>
>
> Is there a step/trip I'm missing? Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Mike Am
>
> 58 Chevy Stepside
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Have you inspected the housing where the seal seat? Could be
> rough, rusted, ets, causing the seals to distort on the way in.
>
>
>
> Never changed them in the original housings, but have many times
> before in other housings. I've only put sealant on the outer part of the
> metal, then tapped them in with a brass drift punch...never a problem.
>
>
>
> You may try finding a piece of pipe that is the same OD diameter of
> the seal, and tap it in with the force being applied to the seal evenly.
>
>
>
> You are only tapping on the outer most edge of the seal?
>
>
>
> --- Mike
>
> --- passnb4u@earthlink.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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