Bill, you can "adjust" the gaps or bends in doors by holding a rubber hammer
in jam area near the lock plate and "slamming the door against it. It will
bounce back some and hopefully bend in the top or bottom. May need to hold
hammer near the base of window frame up above the latch area. Believe it or
not this is still the way they do it in factory, and they use nylon blocks
and other stuff jammed into the hinges and push door closed to bed there for
better front fit. I have a 56 truck shop manual that describes and shows pix
of this very same procedure. And I thought it was a "newer" idea. Go to
library and check out a Ford book if Chevs don't have in theirs. Maybe a
general body repair book would also have the proceedure in it. Sounds awful,
but it does work. Can put the hammer at top or bottom of door and
shut/bounce to bring out at top or bottom too. Good Luck.
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
50 Chevy COE (project)
55 GMC COE (project)
54 Chevy 2-ton (driver)
MM Jet Star 3 (tractor)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Broadway" <bcubed@vanhalen-irc.com>
To: "Ole Trucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Doors
> Are old trucks just bad about doors lining up? On my 55 2nd series there's
a
> noticeable gap between the top of the door and the roof (I don't think it
> has anything to do with them removing my roof. I've heard cabs and doors
> differ from truck to truck. I'm sure once it's all painted, etc ... it
won't
> be noticeable.
>
> Bill
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|