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Re: [oletrucks] Air Compressor/Electric Motor (Off Topic..

To: "OLETRUCK list" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Air Compressor/Electric Motor (Off Topic..
From: "Boteler Family" <boteler@olg.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:55:49 -0400
I recommend you take the motor to your local motor repair shop and ask them
to bench test it for you.  It might be something easy for them to fix.  If
you do get a new motor make sure the RPM ratings are the same.

You will also need a motor starter which should also have the Thermal
Overload Protection built in and heaters installed that match the motor FLA.
The starter is controlled via the on/off pressure switch.

Don't forget to install a pressure pop-off valve rated at a pressure less
than what the tank is rated for (i.e.: if tank is good to 200 psi then get a
175 psi pop-off valve and set the pressure switch at 150 psi).

Mike Boteler
'56 8400 Wrecker
Hughesville, Maryland



----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin C. Earl" <porkchopzz4@netzero.net>
To: "Truck List" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Air Compressor/Electric Motor (Off Topic.. Topic Nazi's
delete now)


> Hi all!
>
> Speaking of air compressors....
>
> I have a 1940's Curtis air compressor that I have been rebuilding.  It is
> HUGE (cast iron dual stage with a 60 gallon tank).  The only thing left to
> crank it up is I need the motor I have repaired.  It is a 3 hp, 220V
single
> phase electric motor with a 184T frame and capacitor start (2 capacitors).
> When I got it and tried to run it, it would start to turn like it was
under
> load for a few seconds and then blow the circuit.  I checked the
capacitors
> and one of them was a 110V capacitor and leaking on top of that.  I
finally
> got new capacitors from Grainger and tried it (thinking it would work
> beautifully) and no luck.. it did the exact same thing (and there was even
a
> spark from inside the motor somewhere for a split second).
>
> It is 17.5 amp under load and I tried to run it (with no load) on a 20 amp
> circuit just to see if it works.  Once I get it working I'll run it
through
> a 30 amp breaker on the panel.  But with no load, it *should* run for more
> than a couple seconds on a 20 amp breaker, right?
>
> Any ideas on what to check?  I've got a total of $120 invested in this
> compressor and a new motor is at least $290 plus shipping.  I'd much
rather
> spend that money on parts for the truck and tools.
>
> For that matter, anyone got a 220V motor, at least 3hp or higher, that
they
> want to sell?
>
> Sandblasting my frame is going to be my first project after disassembling
so
> I really need this compressor running soon.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> -Justin Earl
> '51 Chevy 1 ton dually
> Cartersville, GA
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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