Emory,
Thanks. I am in the middle of this decision and your experience helps. Keep
us posted with any news one way or the other.
Has anyone got similar cost information on a 12v conversion. Battery,
generator/alternator, coil, voltage reducers, ammeter/voltmeter, etc... I
have to think the 12 volt is more money but easier operation in the long
run.
Bill Schickling
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of EEHodges@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 9:31 PM
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] 6/12 Automatic Battery
I wanted to share my weekend project:
There was some talk about this battery on the list some months ago. Most
preferred going to a 12 V conversion or even 8 volt. I decided to give the
6/12 "automatic" battery a try. (See antiqueautobattery.com)
Why - my truck is original and all the 6V stuff functions (lights, heater,
gauges...). Charging system is fine. Only problem is slow starting.
Battery costs $185 + $10 (remote switch option) +$20 shipping + ~$20 (cables
and wiring). So, conversion to 12V is likely less or similar cost but this
is
relatively easy installation.
The 6/12 automatic battery is actually two 6V batteries in the same case
(matches original group 1 size). A switch changes the batteries from
parallel
(6V) to series (12V). The "body" feed always comes off the "middle" terminal
so is always 6V. The starter is fed off the series batteries and gets 12V.
The switch mechanism allows both batteries to run in parallel and thus
charged with the existing 6 V charging system.
On the AD trucks with battery under the floor, there isn't enough room for
the battery mounted switch. Paid an extra $10 to get the remote switch. Have
to buy the battery acid and some cables separately. Wiring wasn't difficult
but took several hours to plan and get things neatly and safely installed. I
put the switch (looks like a F**d starter solenoid with more taps) on the
inside of the frame behind the battery box.
The original hold down has to be "modified" as the posts and caps are too
close to the edge (likely the same problem with 12V conversion?).
"Normal" installation is to power the switch from the starter solenoid, but
since these trucks (unless converted) have a foot starter, you need either a
toggle switch or a "brake light type switch" on the starter mechanism. For
now I routed a wire to a under dash toggle switch - out of sight but easy to
reach. I plan to later buy a brake light switch for the starter mechanism
the
make the operation "fully automatic."
Initial results are GREAT - fast starts and no worry about frying lights...
We'll have to see about durability, etc. but for now I'm pleased.
Emory Hodges
EEHodges@aol.com
48 Chevy 3/4 ton "Rack"
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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