The wire from the ignition is on the driver's side of the guage, and the
guage doesn't use very many amps.
The gage to tank wire is on the passenger side of the guage. This goes to
the sender on the tank, which grounds through the tank body.
I just happened to be in there on my truck today and knocked that wire
loose. The wiring diagram in the service manual covers all of this.
Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
Mt. Iron, MN
>> Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:44:06 -0400
>> From: "Tom" <tomntam@earthlink.net>
>> Subject: [oletrucks] 55 2nd fuses gas tank wiring
>>
>> Does a 55 2nd have a fuse block and if so where is it?
>> Also how can I wire my new sending unit up temporarily, to make sure it
>> works as well as my gas gauge? What size wire, and from where to where does
>> it go? What size fuse do i need and can i just put it in line someplace?
>> Keep in mind that this is temporary, i will have to get a wiring harness and
>> rewire the entire truck. Any suggestions on a place that has dummy proof
>> harnesses?
>>
>> Thanks for any and all help,
>> Tom Cooper
>> I was suppose to be at the coast fishing this weekend, but the bearing went
>> out on the boat trailer. Oh well, guess i'll work on my oletruck.
>>
>
>Tom--
>
>The fuse block was an option, I think it was installed if the truck got
>a couple accessories installed, such as radio/heater/spotlight. One of
>my 59s came with radio/heater, and no fuse block, the other had
>radio/heater/spotlight and had a fuseblock. Who knows?
>
>Anyways, the fuseblock is only for accessories! and there are no fuses
>for most circuits, except for the dash light fuse and breakers in the
>light switch.
>
>The original harness that Chevy Duty sells is pretty good, as long as
>you're keeping the truck mostly original. If you want a dummy resistant
>aftermarket fuse block and wiring harness, you might try a Ron Francis
>kit, or perhaps a Painless Wiring kit, but these are not dummy proof!
>just dummy resistant. They take quite a bit more work to install than
>the factory replacement harness, and you have to make decisions, too.
>
>To wire up the fuel gage, you connect the sender to the S terminal on
>the gage, and connect the I terminal on the gage to the ignition circuit
>(thru a fuse if you're the careful type). The gage and sending unit
>must be properly grounded (the metal parts need to be connected to
>battery negative, this is done thru the mounting and with a small wire
>on the sender). wire size of 16 gage or larger (smaller number is
>larger wire) should be fine. It's real hard to see the lables on the
>back of the gage...they are stamped into the paper insulator. Look
>close, you should be able to see them, but you probably need to remove
>the gage panel first. If it's still wired, the pink wire is I, the tan
>wire is S.
>
>Jim F
>59s in AZ
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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