Neil, I'm no expert here, have done kingpins and did a 51 COE once and my 54
2-ton that I drive. The 54 had stiff stearing and wandered some. Biggest
improvement was a new steering link, from pitman on box to first wheel. I
had to buy one for a 61 or so and had it cut and welded shorter at a race
chassis fabricator. It has worked for 4 yrs. or more. Tightening up the play
in steering box is another good step, procedure's in Shop Manual. I put in
new kingpins cause the grease wouldn't go in them anymore. Replaced zerks
first and dug out dry grease w/pik and they took grease and turned much
easier, then acted looser, so replaced. Now, it's like "new" steering even
w/out power (big st. wheel!). Getting grease to pins is most important part
on easy steering. The way I understand, only time you need oversize pins is
if the axle end itself is ovaled or sloppy. Pin does not move in axle end
normally, may be worn sloppy over years. It's harder to find the standard
size, some only offer the .010 oversize now, all that's left? The axle ends
would need to be reamed for that pin. The bushings on big trucks need to be
pushed in and sometimes reamed to fit pin, not always needed though. Pin
should fit tight clearance wise, yet slip right through w/out binding when
oiled. It's much easieer to remove axle completely and put on bench or
wherever to work on and take to shops if needed. Usually only need to take
spindles and bushings/pins to shop to have fit. That's if you use standard
size. It helps to sand and clean out the axle end where pin goes thru to
have it assemble easier. Pin should push in with only a slight tap from
hammer if needed at all. As far as the "play" you have, 1/4" seems like too
much, 1/8" would be borderline to me. New ones won't have any play. I found
New tie rod ends for my 54 too. On a p/up I did once, I took the steering
arms to a race chassis shop and had them reamed tapered to fit new rod ends
and they made up the new cross rod as couldn't find the old joints. Seems
like big trucks have tapers, maybe not for older ones. There are only a few
sizes of tapers used and new joints shouldn't be hard to find from some new
truck. I don't know if any of this helps, just my experiences and
observations.
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN
54 Chevy 2-ton (driver)
50 Chevy COE (project)
55 GMC COE (project)
MM Jet Star 3 (tractor)
----- Original Message -----
From: <NTemple46@aol.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 7:37 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Kingpin...Replacement?
> As I rebuilt the front end on my truck I paid close attention to the
kingpin
> and spindle tolerances as I had a slight shimmy in the steering. The
> original kingpins and bushings all seemed to be within original specs, and
> upon reassembly seemed to fit really snug. So I decided not to get the
> rebuild kit.
> I didn't notice any play or looseness until I put the big 20" wheels and
> tires on last week. Now, if I push hard at the top of the tire I can get
> some play that appears to come from the kingpin area. It is probably
> 1/8-1/4" of play at the top of the wheel. Is this just how they are with
the
> big wheels, or was my idea of "ok and snug" not good enough? I will be
> using the truck quite a bit and want to make sure the front end is tight.
> Has anyone used the rebuild kits? Can you hone the brass bushings for the
> oversized pin or do you have to press them out and replace them? Any
special
> tools required? What should I look out for?
> Thanks in advance
> Neil Temple
> 46 2-ton
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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