Clean the floor with muriatic acid if there are any contaminant, like oil
grease, fuel or other spill this will clean them up. Just keep the doors
and windows open. It will need alot of ventilation. This will help so the
paint will adhere to the cement floor better and longer. There is a product
that Home Depot sells, unsure of the name, but it is strictly for garage
floors. A friend applied this stuff about 3 years ago and it hasn't lifted
from tires left in one spot too long or from hot tires after driving and
pulling in the garage. He said it is a little pricey, but worth not having
to paint the floor every year or 2.
Jon 50 3104
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary L. Perry" <glperry@fwi.com>
To: "mike" <m1a20@iname.com>; "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Project Update: more starter pictures
> Mike, floor painting is usually short-term fix. You need to clear floor,
> sweep, and wash down with hose and good stiff floor brush, AND Tide
clothes
> soap. Tide only! It does well on grease spots. Take the broom and
circularly
> scrub the spots that are dirty/greasy. Takes long time to rinse all soap
out
> afterwards with hose. Let dry 2 days or so, (worst part) and buy from a
True
> Value Hardware their Polyurethane floor enamel. Ace may have this now I
> think. Polyurethane is the important part, NOT regualar floor enamel. Thin
> it alot with reccommended thinner and put on first coat thin. It won't
color
> much, but sure will soak in and seal. This is important part. Next use
paint
> full strength and you will get color you want. May need another coat.
Forgot
> to say to let dry good part of or all day between coats. Worst part for
> awhile is the smell, goes away later. Most paints don't hold up to where
you
> turn the wheels when setting still. Oil wipes up nice! Don't use ANY latex
> floor paints. Most are that nowadays. I've had real good luck with the
> polyurethane for lots of things, even wood and metal, really holds-up!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mike" <m1a20@iname.com>
> To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 10:22 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Project Update: more starter pictures
>
>
> > Oletruckers,
> >
> > I finally have the starter put back together. Just in time to move
the
> > truck to our new house. And also just in time for nice warm working
> > weather. I would expect more working time now that the truck and I are
in
> > the same zipcode and even the same building.
> >
> > Starter saga starts here, no real story, mostly just progression
pictures
> > (mostly for my benefit, if nothing else, when I put it back together)
and
> > small comments. (Part 2 is the new piece. The first page is the same if
> you
> > have seen it already, except for the link at the bottom to Part 2.)
> >
> > http://m1a20-host53.dsl.visi.com/Truck/Starter
> >
> > *** Side note on new house:
> >
> > Does anyone recommend a floor treatment for the garage? I would like
to
> > at least paint it, but if there is something better than a regular
enamel
> > (or a good reason for a special "floor treatment" product rather than
just
> > paint) please let me know your preferences and/or experiences. I am
just
> > fine with a low tech cheaper approach even if it doesn't last as long as
> an
> > honest to goodness shop floor coating. Any comments on what works or
> > definitely WILL NOT work are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks again.
> > Currently rebuilding and fixing, soon to be truckin'.
> >
> > I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for the insights and comments.
> > --
> > Mike
> > 1948 Chevrolet Thriftmaster 3804 1-Ton
> > http://m1a20-host53.dsl.visi.com/Truck/
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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