Tim, think you will need to use crimp type connector and solder it after
words. You can "tin" the wire and use acid flux paste to pull solder into
joint better. 100 amp is small for bigger wires, may take longer to hold it
on and get good heat. Use Rosin core solder from electrical supplier (radio
shack) or most hardware's have it. I don't like the non-lead or silver
solder, takes too much heat to run and gets "globby" w/out penetrating into
wire. Crimp connectors w/out the plastic are best for this, make sure they
dont touch bare metal that their not supposed too. You can put a sleeve of
"shrink" tube on where wire is soldered to insulate. Have to put it on wire
first and slide back till soldering is finished. Sometimes if the wire isn't
copper and is steel it won't solder at all. I have run into this on original
vehicle wiring, never found that type in stores. Not sure why this is used.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Schorn, Tim" <SchornT@ci.fort-worth.tx.us>
To: "'THE BROWNS'" <armory@swbell.net>; "Willard, Andrew"
<andrew.willard@experian.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] rewiring: was...electrical harness
> Along the same subject line...can anyone tell me how to solder 8 or 10
guage
> alternator wire. I am trying to install a new battery wire plug to my
> alternator (10ga or maybe 8?). I've heard not to crimp, but always solder
> wires to avoid voltage drops from resistance.
> I have a 100w soldering iron. Which type of solder should I be using?
I
> just can't seem to get the wire hot enough to absorb the solder. What is
the
> best method for joining the two wires prior to soldering them? Big wire
must
> take a certain touch, because I've never had any trouble with smaller
> guages. Special cleaning needed? I've tried flux and lead-free solder as
> well as the leaded variety.
> Thanks in ADvance!!
>
> Tim in Ft Worth
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: THE BROWNS [SMTP:armory@swbell.net]
> > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 5:21 PM
> > To: Willard, Andrew; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] electrical harness
> >
> > I have a kit that will be going in soon. It is a Kwik Wire. It has
> > colored
> > and labeled wires, 3 pigtail connectors on the harness, an on /off
toggle
> > switch on the block, and GXL grade wire(was told this is step above
modern
> > >
> > > The wiring on my 50 3100 is mostly original and a mess. Blinkers,
horn
> > > gas gauge, gauge lights etc don't work. Therefore I think I'm best
off
> > > to replace the whole harness. However I'd also need to include the
CB
> > > and stereo etc. I wouldn't mind having a fuse box to run some of
these
> > > items through.
> > > My understanding is that some of the harnesses are better quality than
> > > others.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a name brand harness that they would recommend, and
> > > where did you get it from? Does it come with good instructions?
> > >
> > > Thanks, Sam 1950 3100
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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