I am looking for a modern paint number for the 58 Chevy Truck color Tartan
Turquoise. Does any one out there have any idea what it may be??
Thanks
Rob Butler
Milwaukie, OR
56 Cameo
56 Chevy Panel
77 GMC Jimmy 4x4
78 Chevy Shortwide
48 GM 'Trailabout' <project>
SASQUATCH ARTWORKS
Custom Automotive Cartoons
http://www.connieosborne.com/sasquatch/
----- Original Message -----
From: "oletrucks-digest" <owner-0@autox.team.net>
To: <oletrucks-digest@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:15 AM
Subject: oletrucks-digest V2 #1247
>
> oletrucks-digest Thursday, March 8 2001 Volume 02 : Number
1247
>
>
>
> [oletrucks] Kool April Nites Car Show ["joe"
<chevy1@jps.net>]
> [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet [jimmy
<doodle@flintemc.net>]
> [oletrucks] texas swap meet [vwbus@ckoon.org (craig
k)]
> Re: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet ["Connie Dodd"
<cwdodd1@home.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] where gas filler neck [Stu
<sbcltd@netcomuk.co.uk>]
> [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show? [Dave
<DaveR@neteze.com>]
> RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show? ["Willard, Andrew"
<andrew.willard@expe]
> RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show? ["Willard, Andrew"
<andrew.willard@expe]
> [oletrucks] TF re-wire
[gagejohn@ix.netcom.com]
> [oletrucks] Fw: 1952 Pick-up Trucks! ["Rob J."
<rjjmsj@earthlink.net>]
> [oletrucks] For Sale: 1949 Chevy 3600 ["Carl Jensen"
<CarlJ@jsanet.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] Need help on 58 Suburban I.D. tag ["joe"
<chevy1@jps.net]
> [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions [J Forbes
<jforbes@primenet.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions ["Brian _"
<pkupman57@hotmail.co]
> [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report ["Deve Krehbiel"
<dkrehbiel@kscable.c]
> Re: [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report [Michael Mendonca
<mm@service-qua]
> [oletrucks] brake drum removal [john j tonyes
<flfox1@juno.com>]
> [oletrucks] Redoing seats
[MarkNoakes@aol.com]
> [oletrucks] color of gauges ["Ronald I. Givens"
<givens@hal-pc.org>]
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 20:12:01 -0800
> From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Kool April Nites Car Show
>
> I was wondering if anyone has attended or was planning on attending the
Kool
> April Nites Car show in Redding Ca this year. I've been told people come
> down from Oregon, Washington, Canada, Idaho, etc., so their should be some
> really nice vehicles in attendance.
>
> I've heard about this show for 3 years now and last year a friend of my
> brothers showed me over 100+ photos of the event that finally made me want
> to see it for myself. Some people say this event is bigger and better
than
> Reno Nevada's Hot August Nights.
>
> I'll be driving up my Chopped 1950 1/2 ton with my 15 year old nephew "my
> favorite co-pilot and wrench fetcher" and brother for company.
>
> Joe
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 23:44:32 -0500
> From: jimmy <doodle@flintemc.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet
>
> I wanted to invite you guys to come to our First Annual Car Show and
> Swap meet on April 14, 2001 at the SilverDollar Raceway in Reynolds
> Georgia.Contact me off list for further information.
> Jimmy
> doodle@flintemc.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 23:01:06 -0600
> From: vwbus@ckoon.org (craig k)
> Subject: [oletrucks] texas swap meet
>
> Brady, Texas is having a car show/swap meet the first weekend in April...
> don't know anything else about it. Brady is about 3 hours west of Austin.
>
> craig
> caretaker of
> stephanie's 50 3104 216 5-window deluxe
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 03:05:51 -0500
> From: "Connie Dodd" <cwdodd1@home.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet
>
> Where is Reynolds located ?
>
> C W Dodd
> 56-3200
> Greenville SC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jimmy
> To: oletrucks
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 11:44 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet
>
>
> I wanted to invite you guys to come to our First Annual Car Show and
> Swap meet on April 14, 2001 at the SilverDollar Raceway in Reynolds
> Georgia.Contact me off list for further information.
> Jimmy
> doodle@flintemc.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:06:13 -0000
> From: Stu <sbcltd@netcomuk.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] where gas filler neck
>
> Sam,
>
> Sorry. I can't help much 'cause the tank was already there when I bought
the
> truck. From what Mike was saying the external tanks are from a pre '49
> though.
>
> Maybe someone else can help?
>
> Stu..
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Barrette" <Sam.Barrette@mail.oasd.k12.wi.us>
> To: <sbcltd@netcomuk.co.uk>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 2:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] where gas filler neck
>
>
> > Stu
> >
> > I just got registered and came in on the tail end of the gas tank
> > disscussion. I've just purchased a 50 AD and the tank is one of the
> > projects I'd like to do.
> > Any advice you can give me on what tank works well, where to get it etc
> > and the installation would be greatly apreciated.
> >
> > Thanks, Sam
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 07:46:39 -0800
> From: Dave <DaveR@neteze.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
>
> Does anyone know when the Paso Robles show is this year? Is anyone going?
> BTW, I'm planning to be at Kool April Nights with Old Blue this year too.
> First time for this show for me but I hear it's really cool.
>
> Dave Riffel
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:06:19 -0800
> From: "Willard, Andrew" <andrew.willard@experian.com>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
>
> I "think" Paso Robles is March 17th & 18th, but can't find to verify right
> now. I'll try to verify and let you know.
>
> Andy Willard
>
> 1989 s-10 driver
> 1953 panel project
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave [mailto:DaveR@neteze.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:47 AM
> To: oletrucks
> Subject: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
>
>
> Does anyone know when the Paso Robles show is this year? Is anyone going?
> BTW, I'm planning to be at Kool April Nights with Old Blue this year too.
> First time for this show for me but I hear it's really cool.
>
> Dave Riffel
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:22:10 -0800
> From: "Willard, Andrew" <andrew.willard@experian.com>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
>
> Found it! On the City of Paso Robles community calendar.
>
> Mar. 16-18 Chevy/GMC Truckin' Nationals & Automotive Swap Meet
> Mid-State Fairgrounds
> For more information call:
> 805-686-2007
>
>
> Andy Willard
> Tustin, CA
>
> 1989 s-10 driver
> 1953 panel project
>
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave [mailto:DaveR@neteze.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:47 AM
> To: oletrucks
> Subject: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
>
>
> Does anyone know when the Paso Robles show is this year? Is anyone going?
> BTW, I'm planning to be at Kool April Nights with Old Blue this year too.
> First time for this show for me but I hear it's really cool.
>
> Dave Riffel
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 13:30:05 -0500
> From: gagejohn@ix.netcom.com
> Subject: [oletrucks] TF re-wire
>
> I'm thinking about re-wiring my 59 TF and had a couple of questions:
>
> Will these aftermarket kits such as Ron Francis, Painless etc have
provisions for using the stock column and turnsignals etc...or will I need
to splice them in myself? What I meen is, will they have plugs for older GM
non-keyed columns?
>
> I'm trying to decide wether to buy a kit for Gm or non-gm column.
>
> Have any of you guys used this type of kit on a fairly stock truck?
>
> Thanks, John Schulz
>
> Any suggestions, ideas, concerns?
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:16:33 -0800
> From: "Rob J." <rjjmsj@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Fw: 1952 Pick-up Trucks!
>
> I am posting this for the individual below. 812 area code shows as being
in
> Indiana. Do not send anything to me, communicate directly to Ken St.
Clair
> or Art Douglas.
>
> Rob
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Douglas, Art" <Art.Douglas@ArvinMeritor.com>
> To: <rjjmsj@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 8:59 AM
> Subject: 1952 Pick-up Trucks!
>
>
> > Dear Sir,
> > I saw your ad and wanted to tell you about my friend that has (2) 1952
> > Chevrolet 1/2 ton pick-up trucks. Both trucks are all original, and one
> > truck is a five window cab.
> > Neither trucks runs, but he would like to sell both trucks together. If
> > interested, call Ken St. Clair, at 1-812-379-4205.
> >
> >
> > Art Douglas
> > Product Designer
> > Ford Business Group
> > ArvinMeritor Inc.
> > Art.Douglas@ArvinMeritor
> > 812-341-2272
> > Pager: 812-348-0369
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 11:22:50 -0800
> From: "Carl Jensen" <CarlJ@jsanet.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] For Sale: 1949 Chevy 3600
>
> I've (or my fiancee) have decided to sell my 1949 3600 to make room for
her new car. It's red, has a later 235, 4 speed, and is a good, original
California truck. It's been converted to 12 volt, and it is my daily driver.
I just replaced the alternator, which is the only thing I've had to do to it
(besides changing the oil) in my 7 months of owning it. My friend owned it
for 2 years prior to me purchasing it from him and never had any problems
with it. It has one spot of rust in the drivers side cab corner and the
right rear fender has a dent in it, but otherwise the body is very solid. it
has not been lowered, cut up, or altered in any way. It still has the
starter pedal and the pneumatic wipers. I'm asking $2300, since that is what
I bought it for last year. It is located in Sacramento, California. Thanks.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:42:52 -0800
> From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Need help on 58 Suburban I.D. tag
>
> I'll give the # a try:
>
> 3A - 3100
> 58 - 1958
> K - Kansas City, MO Assembly Plant
> 137025 - Represents the production number
>
> Joe
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Knapik, Robert J <robert.j.knapik@intel.com>
> To: oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, March 05, 2001 9:10 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Need help on 58 Suburban I.D. tag
>
>
> >I've got a buddy who has a weird stamp on his vin tag...
> >it looks like this
> >
> > Chevrolet
> > c58-324
> >3A58k137025
> >
> >Can anyone tell me what the center numbers mean?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >
> >Bob Knapik - Mesa, AZ
> >58 GMC NAPCO
> >http://tbob.jumphobbies.com
> >mailto:Robert.J.Knapik@Intel.com
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 14:16:02 -0700
> From: J Forbes <jforbes@primenet.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions
>
> John--
>
> I used a Painless kit in my 55 Chevy Belair. I have
> installed a Chevy Duty stock type kit in someone
> else's 58 pickup.
>
> The Painless non-GM column kit does require you to
> add the appropriate connectors for your ignition
> switch and turn signal switch. I'm not sure about
> the Ron Francis kit...I prefer the GM wiring method
> that Painless uses, because I'm used to it, and I
> understand it pretty well, and have the color code
> memorized, etc. The problem with the Painless kit
> (and probably the Francis kit also) is that it's
> designed mainly for street rods (48 and older
> cars/trucks with later model running gear), and
> doesn't fit 50s cars and trucks exactly
> right...without doing some extra work.
>
> I need to do the wiring on my 57 Suburban one of
> these days, and what I really want is a Painless kit
> that has the nice fuse block they use, but also has
> stock connections for lights, gages, etc. I think
> to get what I want, I'd have to get both kits, and
> do a lot of work...and it would cost a lot and keep
> me busy for a week.
>
> Instead, I'll probably use the stock type harness,
> and add fuses and extra wires as needed. It takes
> some work, but doesn't cost as much.
>
> For you needs, I suggest you think carefully about
> what your truck really needs. ARe you planning on
> adding several extra electrical accessories? If so,
> the Painless/Francis kits are nice because they have
> fuses and wires for lots of extra things. However,
> if you are just going to add one or two extra
> things, then the stock harness, with some add ons
> (and some extra safety things such as a main fusible
> link) will do the job. Some wiring competency is
> required when you make any modifications...so be
> careful!
>
> If you get a Painless kit for a non-GM column, it
> will probably be easier to use...because it won't
> have the funky connectors for the ignition switch
> and turn signals that were used on 70s-80s vintage
> GMs. With the kit for GM column, you'd have to cut
> the connectors off and use the older style
> terminals, and the igntion switch wires may not be
> long enough (just guessing, though).
>
> You can buy the correct contacts to use in the
> orignal older GM plastic connector housings...I
> think real auto parts places have them, as well as
> the GM dealers. I have some of the part numbers out
> in the shop...or look in the dealer's Standard Parts
> Catalog, if they still use such a thing.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> Jim F
> 59s in AZ
>
> > I'm thinking about re-wiring my 59 TF and had a couple of questions:
> >
> > Will these aftermarket kits such as Ron Francis, Painless etc have
provisions for using the
> > stock column and turnsignals etc...or will I need to splice them in
myself? What I meen is,
> > will they have plugs for older GM non-keyed columns?
> >
> >
> > I'm trying to decide wether to buy a kit for Gm or non-gm column.
> >
> > Have any of you guys used this type of kit on a fairly stock truck?
> >
> > Thanks, John Schulz
> >
> > Any suggestions, ideas, concerns?
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 14:29:50 -0800
> From: "Brian _" <pkupman57@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions
>
> hi,
> with the Ron Francis kit, when you order, they ask you several questions,
> they basically custom build your harness for you with GM color codes and
> more individually marked terminals than anything painless has. you can buy
> it with a stock TF turn signal switch and the harness comes with a new
> headlight switch and dash switch that can use stock knobs and comes with
its
> own one peice connector.
> for the money $430 last i checked i think, the Francis kit is great, its
> what i will soon be putting into my, fairly stock '57
>
> Brian M
> Atwater, CA
> '57 3200
> '00 Dodge Neon
>
>
> also, with Ron Francis, Ron himself answers any and all emails his company
> gets, and answers to questions come in less than 24 hours.
> _________________________________________________________________
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:17:39 -0600
> From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report
>
> Awhile back I shared with you all my dismay about what previous owners
seem
> to think they have the right to do with their trucks. In this case,
someone
> took a pair of tinsnips and cut out a huge hole in the dash to accomodate
a
> much larger radio than would normally fit. The hole wasnt even square or
> neat. It was just snipped out and then holes drilled high and low to bolt
it
> in. No effort was made to make it look like anything but a garbage truck.
> Okay so I am slowly getting over it but I do have good news....
>
> I went to the salvage yard and had the owner torch out a piece of the dash
> on a salvage truck that was slightly bigger than what I would need to
patch
> my dash. I then took a die grinder and trimmed this piece so it was square
> and manageable to install in the dash of my truck. After sandblasting the
> piece and cleaning the edges, I put that piece up to the dash and drew a
> line around it in the exact place I needed to cut the old mess out of. I
was
> very careful to measure several times and make sure I cut slightly inside
> the line to ensure there were no surprises. The idea was to butt weld the
> piece into place so I needed NO gaps anywhere. I proceeded to cut the hole
> out of the dash and it was slightly too small (just like I wanted). The
> little 3" die grinder makes the best trimmer for enlarging the hole. If I
> used my Makita grinder, it would have been too aggressive. After I made
the
> hole exactly perfect.. and this is a challenge that takes patience more
than
> anything else.. I took the grinder with a 120 grit flap disk and cleaned
off
> the old paint around the hole. This is a very important step before butt
> welding thin sheetmetal. It takes the contaminants out of the picture
> allowing a good clean weld with minimum heat. I then placed the new piece
in
> the hole and used several welding clamps to hold it in place. You have
only
> one shot to do this right, so the clamping is real important. You need to
> make sure its even with the dash and that isnt as easy as it should be.
Your
> next hazard is that butt welding thin sheetmetal is not easy since the
> initial amperage from the welder wants to blow a hole in the work instead
of
> adding weld to it. Strike the welder against the dash first and then
quickly
> run the weld over the crack. The dash first since thats where the welder
is
> grounded to and makes the best contact.
>
> Once you have it tacked in place in about 6 areas... and only tacked.. you
> cant use the welder like a sewing machine and stitch it up. You need to
run
> a very small 1/4" or so tack in one place, then go across to the other
side
> and do another, and then on top, bottom and repeat until the entire piece
is
> welded in. Its very tricky because you not only have to worry about
blowing
> a hole in it, but the worst enemy is warpage. If you apply too much heat
to
> one place (and almost none is too much) you warp the dash and it would
look
> really bad afterwards and then almost impossible to repair.
>
> Now, instead of doing what is normal and grabbing your Makita with a
> grinding disc, put a 120 grit sandpaper flap disk in the Makita. Even if
it
> takes longer to do it, it will not be too agresssive and really makes for
a
> smooth base. Also, grinding can overheat the metal and cause warpage. Run
> the flap disc for short periods before moving on to the next area, then
> revisit the areas that are needed. In case it isnt clear, I welded on top,
> not under the dash. Although ones first impression that its better to weld
> under the dash, you quickly get over that when you cant get in where you
> need to easily while doing such intricate work.
>
> After the welding is completed, its my opinion that no matter how good you
> are in welding, there is no getting around the need for a skim coat of
> filler. Welding just doesnt make for a perfect finish no matter how hard I
> try. Trying too hard can warp the work and cause you great pain. I used a
> product from Sherwin Williams called Gray Spot Putty. I put some on my
> finger and just rub it into the places it needed and then let it dry for
> about an hour before sanding with 300 grit. After the spot putty, I used
> Sherwin Williams Gray Primer Filler and then resanded.
>
> How does it look? I would bet there is no-one on the planet that can tell
> this piece was ever welded in. The work came out exactly as I had
> envisioned. I cant imagine anything more satisfying than seeing that
hacked
> up dash transformed into a source of pride.
>
> We spend to much time worrying about our individual rights but when we
sell
> a vehicle to someone else we figure what the heck.. pass on the trouble to
> the next guy, afterall, its not my problem anymore. What we sometimes fail
> to realize is that we are all in this together and someday that person may
> have to make the decision as to wether or not to pull your sorry butt out
of
> a burning car or something. As to wether I would pull the good ole boy
that
> hacked this dash all up out of a burning car.. I suppose, but I can always
> fantasize! Cost for the entire escapade was gas to drive 180 miles to the
> salvage yard and back, the $25.00 for the salvage owner, $20.00 in putty
and
> materials, and about 10 hours of my time.
>
> Hope this helps someone! :) (especially if you have a tinsnips in your
> hand!)
>
> Deve Krehbiel
> Hesston, Kansas
> 1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
> www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: 07 Mar 2001 16:13:39 -0800
> From: Michael Mendonca <mm@service-quality.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report
>
> Deve,
>
> What a great account of the process you just did. As it turns out, I have
just completed a similar project on a much more minor scale on my '54 Chevy
1/2 ton. The PO had drilled 3/8 inch holes into 3 of the vertical rails to
"miss-mount" a 12 V windshield wiper unit. The holes looked like they had
been drilled with a wood bit and done with a beer in one hand and a smoke in
the other.
>
> After mineral blasting the entire cab, I JB welded a piece of sheet metal
behind the holes and filled them in with the same stuff. Also, I used spot
putty to clean up any small imperfections and no one can tell.
>
> Thanks for the story.
>
> Michael
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 20:48:44 -0500
> From: john j tonyes <flfox1@juno.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] brake drum removal
>
> Don't really know how to be nice about this but here I go.
> For all of you young fellows. From us old F@#$&, there was a tool to
> remove the rear brake drums very easy. I will give you the name of the
> Co. that made it and the part number. I am sure that some else made it.
> This was back in the 50's, when I bought it. K-D Mfg Co. No 284 .
> There were two of them in a set. You put them in the two round holes in
> the brake durm and it would pull the drum off, yery easy.
>
> I still have them and they sure help me in my restoration.
>
> John T.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:43:03 EST
> From: MarkNoakes@aol.com
> Subject: [oletrucks] Redoing seats
>
> It's time for me to tackle getting my Suburban seats redone. My plans are
to
> powder coat the frames in a close to original color. I also want to have
two
> sets of covers made for the seats per a plan that we have used with our
home
> couch and love seat. . .nice standard conventionally installed upholstery
as
> a base but with slip on, form fitting, zip to hold in place seat covers
that
> go over the nice stuff for daily wear and tear. The base is in upholstery
> fabric; the covers are upholstery grade denim.
>
> I really ought to take the seats down to the springs and replace the
padding.
>
> Where can I get original style padding? I've got most of the regular
> catalogs. Many of them have upholstery kits, but I don't think that they
> show the burlap (jute?) style padding.
>
> Or should I not worry about trying for original? Most shops these days
just
> use foam, don't they?
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Mark Noakes
> Knoxville, TN
> 58/56 Chevy Suburban, V8, 3speed + OD
> 59 GMC Suburban, V8/Hydramatic truck looking for the V8 and a NAPCO
> conversion kit
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 02:04:18 -0600
> From: "Ronald I. Givens" <givens@hal-pc.org>
> Subject: [oletrucks] color of gauges
>
> Howdy all,
> I have a 51 gmc suburban...
> My gauges and speedometer are dark dark brown or black...some fading...
> amp gauge has "-50 to +50"...
> Are these the original gauges?
> If not what did they come out of?
> thanks for any info
> ron givens
> 51 gmc?
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of oletrucks-digest V2 #1247
> ********************************
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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