If this stuff gets sticky when heated then why bother with glue? Where can
someone who doesn't live in TN get this stuff. I could probably go to a
roofing supply place but I would need the actual name of this stuff. Thanks
John Mercier
>Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 23:24:45 -0800
>From: Holly and Chris Mills <scmills@tntech.edu>
>Subject: [oletrucks] Sound proofing - my version
>
>I hope this bit of info helps some of you and it applies to anything old
>and noisy.
>
>This vehicle in question is a '78 VW Westfalia camper. I'm finishing a
>general freshening up - that has taken 2 years this Easter - which includes
>trying to update a few things - the upholstery, interior lighting, noise
>level at 60 mph, and handling (with sway bars).
>
>I started a hunt for a way to quieten it down. VW's are pretty noisy
>sometimes of course.
>
>The search naturally led to Dynamat but the cost was way to high for my
>budget to support enough material to do this bus which has lots of floor.
>
>JC Whitney had their version of Dynamat as a reduced cost but still high.
>
>My objectives were to lower the noise inside the van:
>1) cheaply
>2) effectively
>3) not create a rust problem (the VW can do that on it's own)
>4) I wanted something that I could get locally (in our small town)
>
>Dynamat fails #1, the silvered faced sheets of jute that Lowe's sells
>locally fail #2 as their isn't enough material (thickness) there.
>
>Carpet underlayment fails #3 I guess and so may industrial neoprene (also a
>reasonable cost).
>
>The various OEM guys use a thick tar paper material much like Dynamat on
>the fire walls and some parts of the floors. All that LOWE's has to offer
>was thin tar paper - which would require may layers of glue and paper to
>build enough mass to be effective.
>
>A fellow once posted to one of the VW lists that there are two basic ways
>to dampen the noise a car makes - absorb it (upholstery, carpet, etc) so
>there isn't much to reflect, or dampen the vibration of the metal panels of
>the bodywork. The OEM guys use a combination of both obviously using the
>tar paper panels and jute. I'll do the same with my asphalt material on the
>floors and foam on the vertical surfaces all - and I mean all of the other
>surfaces upholstered - roof too (all except the cabinets).
>
>Finally I started talking to local roofers - specifically ones that worked
>on commercial flat roofs. One very helpful fellow here in middle TN took
>the time to show me the materials he uses which were mostly as you can
>imagine, the standard thin tar papers.
>
>However he showed me a roll of modified polymer+bitchum - that is 180 mls
>(maybe a lower number slightly) versus the thin regular tar paper stuff.
>Imagine comparing sliced American cheese to newspaper.
>
>He showed me how it had a face which when heated with a Propane torch would
>get sticky and could be layered to any thickness. It looks like three
>layers would gain you 1/2" or so. The heat required seems to far exceed the
>temps of a hot car in the summer.
>
>It will also require a torch to really get this stuff contoured to any
>curves your floor might have. I left the roll of material in the back of my
>CR-V for two days (other things to do) and noticed no smell despite the
>fact the car got 70 degrees one day (inside) and feel confident that any
>very hot days my bus might see would only create a small stink inside that
>would fade with time.
>
>My plan is to lay this material directly on the floor with glue and heat
>and then top it with any layers I might need and then top it (and glued)
>with the silvered jute material from LOWE'S to keep the black
>bitchum/polymer junk where it belongs. This will be topped with carpet and
>etc.
>
>A roll 3 feet by 45 feet cost me $42. The opposite side of the material is
>similar to regular tar paper but not prone to tearing - in fact you
>couldn't if you tried.
>
>It weighs about 50 lbs for the whole roll.
>
>He questioned me to the exact trade name of the stuff in the magazines
>(Dynamat) and told me he was sure that Dynamat was a 'John Mansfield Co'
>trademark and was generally used (as I understood it - our conversation was
>held during a hard rain under a tin roofed pavilion) for walk mats in
>roofing - sections of flat tar roofing with a thicker membrane suitable for
>foot traffic (maintenance people). It was also cheap and very similar to
>what I purchased - naturally he had my stuff in stock and didn't have the
>raw Dynamat though he said he could get it if I wanted to wait a few days.
>
>So looks like the magazine guys are making a fortune off of folks willing
>to pay retail price for Dynamat. My version won't have peel and stick glue,
>so I'll have to use spray can glue I think, but I am very excited about a
>successful hunt!
>
>Hope this helps some of you out there.
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