I believe those creases are the result of the door hinge spring failure that
is common on AD trucks. Two of my 4 trucks have that problem. Many ways to
fix. I like to use metal for all my repairs so the patch panel is my
preference. Welding isnt easy tho. Warpage is so very easy to occur. Most of
this area is accessible when you remove the inside cowl panel. I needed to
replace both insides of the current project as well as all the floor panels
and parts of the toe board. This made it easy to pound out the creases you
refer to and make it possible to use only a slight skimming of bondo or
primer filler. Would also be a good idea to make sure you have good door
hinge springs so the wind wont take the door and mess it up again.
Deve Krehbiel
Hesston, Kansas
1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Heigher" <bheigher@yahoo.com>
To: "smiler" <Moneymatters@snet.net>; "Ole Trucks"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Cowl patches
> Chet -- Words from a rank amatuer so take them for
> what they are worth. I had the same cowl creases on
> my truck but repaired them in a different manner.
> Using strips of fiberglass cloth, I built up the
> indentations to almost flush with the surrounding
> metal and then smoothed with bondo. After the primer
> was applied the patches are invisible. As to
> longevity, who knows? If it doesn't hold up I'll do it
> differently next time. The cost to repair was nothing
> compared to the patch panels.
>
> Good Luck --Barry
>
>
> --- smiler <Moneymatters@snet.net> wrote:
> > The archives are down at the moment, but has anyone
> > installed those new
> > one piece side cowl patch panels from Bowtie Bits
> > ($99.95 each.. one
> > piece patch from hood hinge to bottom rocker)....my
> > question focuses on
> > removing the old original cowl piece at the level of
> > the hood
> > hindges...I know there is lead seam to contend
> > with...cutting out the
> > spot welds is not the issue...dealing with lead seam
> > main concern.
> >
> > 1. Any special health issues dealing with freeing
> > old cowl from seam
> > lead vapors?
> > 2. whats best approach technique to open seam up..ie
> > torch to melt lead?
> >
> > 3. Whats best approach to reseal seam after
> > replacing cowl..lead,
> > metal to metal, or bondo??
> >
> > I chose to replace the whole cowl since the cab I am
> > rebuilding had both
> > doors hyperextened at some previous point badly
> > creasing the entire cowl
> > length...not just the bottoms which weren't rotted
> > at all... For the
> > price verses the time/labor cost of stud weld
> > pulling the crease(didn't
> > want to drill a hundred holes and mig fill either,
> > since no obvious
> > access to back of crease)) and finishing off the
> > repair. the patches
> > appear to be a bargain..
> >
> > Any help appreciated...I will get back to list with
> > some feed back after
> > the patches show up (ie quality) and comments on
> > installation as well
> >
> > FYI
> >
> > Bowtie Bits
> > 6430 N Broadway
> > Witchta Kansasa
> > 67219
> > 888-838-6887
> >
> > Patches have louvers on passenger side
> > No vent on Drivers side , unless you splice one in
> > shipping est $20.00
> > $99.95 for each side right and left available
> >
> > Chet
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Chet Balint
> > 1950 Chevy AD "Rocky"
> > 1948 GMC
> > Cheshire, CT
> >
> > http://pages.cthome.net/chevypickup50/
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > between 1941 and 1959
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|