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Re: [oletrucks] Engine re-assembly problems

To: rstein@sssnet.com, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Engine re-assembly problems
From: Passnb4U@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 19:58:59 EST
In a message dated 1/21/01 9:05:24 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
rstein@sssnet.com writes:

<<  I need advice from the list on my GMC 228 engine I am re-assembling.  The
 first problem I am having is that my #6 cylinder bore has a groove in it.  I
 created the groove while learning how to use my ridge reaming tool.  I
 started the reamer too deep in the hole, and made a groove that is deep
 enough to feel with my fingernail about two inches from the top of the bore.
 I re-installed the piston in the bore, and tried to move the crank in a full
 revolution.  When the top ring reached this groove, there was a noticeable
 drag.  The piston did not slide over this groove freely.  I could have
 forced the crank through this section of the stroke, but I just took the
 piston back out of the bore and went on to the other five.  PROBLEM #1:  How
 do I remove the groove from the cylinder bore?  Is it possible without
 having the block re-bored?
    Moving on to cylinder #5 and #4, the re-assembly was relatively
 trouble-free.  Cylinder #3 was going well until I tried to re-tighten one of
 the connecting rod bolts.  The bottom thread has a bad section, and I cannot
 tighten it.  PROBLEM #2:  How do i fix the rod bolt?  Can I chase the bolt
 with a die and run a tap through the nut?  If the bolt is not repairable, is
 the GMC rod bolt available from auto parts stores?  Is it the same design
 and size as newer engine rod bolts that can be purchased new?  Lastly, does
 anyone have a spare rod bolt from another GMC motor they can part with if
 the components are not available new?
    Third problem.  If I have, in fact destroyed the bore on the #6 cylinder
 bore, does anyone have a spare block in the Cleveland, OH area that they are
 willing to part with?  I would prefer to re-use my pistons, as they are in
 good condition and 0.060" overbore.  To have my block honed at a machine
 shop would mean buying a new set of pistons as well.  If I get a standard
 size block, I could take it to 0.060" overbore without buying another set of
 rings and pistons.  I am no longer a single man restoring a truck.  I have a
 wife and son, so I need to keep this rebuild as economical as possible.
 Please, someone on the list, tell me what I can do to fix this engine! >>

  No one can say for sure about the groove you put into the cylinder, but 
there could be a few different options...honing it through, sleeving the 
hole..best to have a machine shop look it over for advice.

  Personally I replace rod bolts, etc, during a rebuild...just take the rod 
in and have the old stud pulled, and a new one pressed in (I assume that's 
the set up...), don't cut corners on used hardware, unless you're really in a 
bind.

  Good luck.

  Mike
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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