I've always been confused by this same question. I've been told that enamel
can cover anything, but lacquer can only cover lacquer due to orange-peel
defects. Is this true for all cases, or only when the base coats are
relatively new?
What if I don't know what kind of paint is on the truck already, does that
mean I'm forced to use enamel?
Also, whenever I've done enamel, I get a subtle washboard/ripple surface
that is visible when trying to see a reflection in the gloss. Is this an
attribute of enamel (unavoidable) or just poor workmanship? I feel that I
should learn to use lacquer just to avoid this problem.
What does everyone suggest for the home painter who wants a good looking
surface?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tom3600@webtv.net
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 6:40 AM
To: Deve Krehbiel
Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Painting Questions
Deve ~
If the old paint is in good shape as far as adhesion, I would recommend
just sanding it lightly to remove any gloss or imperfections. The old
saying was that the best primer is the old topcoat if it has good
adhesion and is smooth. Of course you must feather out all the dings
and scratches and use a good solvent to remove all the old wax and any
oil on the surface. If you sand through the topcoat and the primer down
to bare metal than treat that like you did any other bare metal parts
before repainting.
Technically an old paint job that has good adhesion to the primer/metal
surface and shows no corrosion under the paint film is just a "glossy
primer" and just needs to be sanded so that the new topcoat will have
good intercoat adhesion.
Tom
Tom Poterack
Moline, IL.
'49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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