Hi Steve,
(Hope this isn't too long and boring for the list)
>Hi guys....I'm in the putting together stage of my truck and need to get
>my hinges rebuilt. I know where to get the parts and Golden State does
>sell rebuilt hinges but $90 each is a bit too much for me. Does anyone
>know of another source to do this and how much. I don't have the
>propper tools to try it myself.
Good timing, I just rebuilt the left side (drivers)door hinges this past
Wed/Thur on our 49. I ordered the hinge repair oversize pins
w/bushings, plus new springs from Chevy Duty. The drivers door obviously
seeing the most opening and closing had really loose hinges, and I could no
longer adjust the striker/latch to work reliably.
I didn't have any instructions, nor have I done this before, but the
following is the procedure I used to repair the hinges. I have a drill
press, with a table vise, however the hinge parts don't readily allow
clamping with the required holes perpendicular to the quill on the drill
press. I had to make this a morning job so I didn't want to take time to
set up holding fixtures or whatever to enlarge the holes.
Getting the hinges out of the truck pockets and doors can be a problem, due
to rust in my case. I used some pressurized liquid wrench type aerosol
spray on the bolts best I could, several times, several days apart. Working
slowly, loosening the bolts slightly, more spray, turn back in (tighten)
slightly, back out, etc, eventually I got all the bolts out one at a time.
I used a 3/8-24 tap to run thru the female portion threads, and wire
brushed the bolts, added some white grease and reinstalled. Once I had all
the bolts done, on Tuesday morning I removed the door, and removed the
upper hinge. Getting the bolts out was child's play compared to the rusted
hinge pins. I heated the portion of the hinge with the captive pin, let it
cool, then some of the liquid wrench spray and let soak while I scrounged
up a short piece of tubing from a junk box to support the area around the
pin head but allow the head to go thru. I chucked that in the vise, held
the hinge with the pin head down centered in the tubing hole and used a
large hammer and drift punch to get it moving out of the hinge. It moved
about 3/4" this way, then appeared to stop. I used a fine tooth hacksaw and
cut the head end off where it protruded from the hinge. More spray, then I
drove it out completely the other direction. I cleaned the now separated
hinge parts on a wire wheel.
Checking the new parts from Chevy Duty the pin is .340"dia and the "hat"
shaped bushings are .417" outer dia with a .343"dia hole. The "hat" shaped
bushings will fit inside the outer hinge with the shoulder seated against
the inner portion, held captive by the center portion of the hinge.
I clamped the outer portion in the vise and started with a 3/8" (.375) bit
in a drill motor to enlarge the two holes. Next I used a 25/64" (.3906)
next a 13/32"(.406) and finally a 27/64" (.4219) The idea here being not to
enlarge the holes all at once. I used a small rat tail file and counter
sink to chamfer the edges of the holes. I inserted the two bushings and
tried the pin, which slid thru easily.
Next clamp the center portion of the hinge in the vise. This hole should be
a tight or slight press fit holding the new pin allowing the hinge to move
within the two bushings. I started with a 5/16"(.3125) bit, then
21/64"(.328) and last a size "R" or .339" bit. I checked and the pin would
not quite go into the hole I just enlarged with finger pressure, however it
appeared a little pressure would force it into the hole. I coated the
bushings and the pin with white grease and used a 1/2" socket against the
bottom of the hinge assembly and inserted it into the widely opened jaws of
the vise. Now I gently turned the handle to press the pin thru. Don't push
the pin in too far or the serrated portion under the pin head will seat in
the bushing and try to make the bushing turn in the outer hinge. We want
the pin held captive in the center portion allowing rotation of the outer
part on the axis of the pin.
Next, one at a time, I used the vise to squeeze the new horse shoe shaped
springs slightly and forced the loose end into the elongated slot with a
wide blade screw driver.
A quick shot of red oxide rattle can primer, let it almost dry and put it
back in the door. I pick up my wife at work at 1:15 each day so I put the
door back in and away I went. The next morning, Thursday, I did the same
with the lower hinge, except there are no springs to install. The pin came
out much easier on this one, but I had to take more time when done to
correctly realign the door, since I don't intend to be removing it soon again.
Hope this helps anyone contemplating this project. It sure tightened up the
door, and the new springs really work great holding the door open.
"Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie Nelson
http://home.utm.net/bfischer
e-mail - bfischer@utm.net or robert.f.fischer.jr@syntegra.com
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