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[oletrucks] '49 3100 SOLVED - well almost...help.

To: old-chevy-truck@egroups.com, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] '49 3100 SOLVED - well almost...help.
From: Holly and Chris Mills <scmills@tntech.edu>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:06:20 -0600
Well I'm a bit more edu-ma-cated tonight after giving the exhaust manifold 
flapper a very good looking over.

Without a shop manual my understanding of the flapper was all wrong.

I understood what the flapper did but not how it was actuated.

Now I know.

I thought the rod from the gas pedal moved it or 'persuaded' it and the 
spring maybe gave the flapper the final orders whether to be open or closed.

Now I know it is wholly automatic and connected to nothing except the 
counterweight on one end and the spring on the other.

Every thing looks intact and in good order EXCEPT that it is stuck - VERY 
stuck.

Now where I need some help is knowing whether it is stuck open (and heating 
the carb) or closed. No wait - I know it's stuck closed because the carb is 
either freezing up inside or the poor atomization of the fuel is causing my 
engine's missing and studdering.

What I REALLY need to know is which way to try to persuade this thing to 
rotate! I first want to try to persuade it with a screwdriver and some 
spray oil before I start pulling manifolds (and breaking studs!).

If your head is where the radiator is, and looking at the counterweight on 
the flapper shaft, then on a clock face the counterweight would be pointing 
at 1 o'clock.

Now is it supposed to rotate towards the block or towards the fender?

I can make the counterweighted end of the shaft creak a little so either 
the flapper or the end of the rod where the spring is the binding portion - 
I think. I've already proven to myself that the spring end of the shaft is 
pretty weak so I don't want to twist with my pliers there anymore.

I thought I might try to drift the shaft forwards and backwards and mix 
that with some rotation persuation.

If I had a torch I might try a little heat but in the name of not burning 
my truck to the ground I'll hold off on that solution.

All of the tuneup adjustments seemed to make things better but this is the 
final chapter and very necessary in this cold winter weather.

I did have the carb about as rich as I could (for best idle) but it was 
simply a band-aid for the cold carb and turned my normally reasonably 
frugal truck into a dinosaur juice glutton.

I leaned it back out and it seems to be better but the idle is crummy (cold 
carb).

On the subject of carbs I found a catalog that identified the Zenith, the 
Rochestor and the Carter as all being found on my model truck. So I can use 
either carb I have. Good to know.

So can anyone help me rotate this shaft the right way from the start so I 
don't break anything (more <grin>)?

Thanks a bunch everyone!



CHRIS in Tennessee
scmills@tntech.edu
ICQ: 5944649

'78 Westy (maybe some CIS injection,Corvair, turbos --- hmmmm...)
'65 Beetle (Type IV powered)
'99 CR-V 5 speed
'49 Chevy 3100 Pickup
'81 Honda CB900C
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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