oletrucks-digest Sunday, April 16 2000 Volume 02 : Number 929
Re: [oletrucks] future project ["Tom Warner" <twwood@bellsouth.net>]
[oletrucks] Project Update ["Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>]
Re: [oletrucks] acid to remove rust [ADvent@thuntek.net]
Re: [oletrucks] Battery relocation on TF truck [ADvent@thuntek.net]
Re: [oletrucks] Faster Signal Light...more bulbs, blinksfaster... [ADvent]
Re: [oletrucks] Faster Signal Light...more bulbs, blinks faster... [ADven]
Re: [oletrucks] Headlight buckets needed [ADvent@thuntek.net]
Re: [oletrucks] future project [ADvent@thuntek.net]
[oletrucks] AERO KROIL ["Jimmy Whitley" <doodle@flintemc.net>]
Re: [oletrucks] Patch panels for a '56 ["Boteler Family" <boteler@olg.com]
[oletrucks] Gas Additives? ["Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>]
[oletrucks] Which subframe? [Jennifer Maze <jlmaze@ucdavis.edu>]
[oletrucks] Oil and Filters ["Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>]
Fwd: [oletrucks] Gas Additives? [Advdesign1@aol.com]
Fwd: [oletrucks] Oil and Filters [Advdesign1@aol.com]
Re: [oletrucks] early 235 [Advdesign1@aol.com]
Re: [oletrucks] Gas Additives? [Allen Coblentz <wac8019@erinet.com>]
[oletrucks] Great Chevy p/u book, called Chevy Pickup Trucks... [GremlinG]
[oletrucks] Best polish and wax ["tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>]
Re: [oletrucks] Project Update [Bruce Damen <little-castle-contracting@ca]
[oletrucks] Online Album... Great Trucks ! ["tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>]
[oletrucks] Paint Primer [Tom3600@webtv.net]
Re: [oletrucks] Paint Primer [Passnb4U@aol.com]
Re: [oletrucks] Paint Primer [Tom3600@webtv.net]
Re: [oletrucks] Paint Primer ["Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>]
[oletrucks] Web Site Update ["Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>]
Re: [oletrucks] Paint Primer [Tom3600@webtv.net]
Re: [oletrucks] Best polish and wax ["Alan D. Gingles" <agingles@nucleus.]
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 18:16:51 -0400
From: "Tom Warner" <twwood@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] future project
Lots of them in Florida.
Tom Warner
- ----- Original Message -----
From: David <David@gardener.com>
To: Brad Newman <bkn6@airmail.net>; oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2000 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] future project
> Brad,
>
> I thought that convertible trucks were not legal to drive on the highway.
>
> I tried to look it up, but forget where I heard it.
>
> Sounds like a great idea though.
>
> David Edwards
> 1954 3100 5 Window
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brad Newman <bkn6@airmail.net>
> To: oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2000 9:49 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] future project
>
>
> | As the completion of a 2 year, frame off restoration of my stock 49
> | comes into view, I'm already looking for my next project, and would like
> | ya'lls opinion.
> | My son is 13, and is already trying to convince me that we need to find
> | him a truck and start working on it for his first vehicle. He, of
> | course, would like more of a rod than a stocker, which is fine by me,
> | and somewhere along the line he got it in his head that he would like a
> | convertible AD! I have seen a couple of these in different magazines,
> | and must admit they looked pretty sharp. I have found a 54 3 window cab
> | that is in pretty good shape everywhere except for the roof, so its a
> | good candidate if I decide to do this.
> | Has anyone ever attempted this? Am I getting in over my head? There is a
> | company here in Dallas that will make both hard tops (glass) and soft
> | tops for any vehicle, so that part is easy. It seems pretty straight
> | forward, but I'm the guy that originally thought that my frame off on
> | the 49 would take about 6 months. What do ya'll think?
> | Thanks
> | Brad
> |
> | oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 07:15:07 -0500
From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
Subject: [oletrucks] Project Update
I just spent the last approx 2 weeks re-sandblasting and have now finished
four fenders, inside fenders, running boards, doors, hood halves, seat
frame, grill pan, radiator mount, bumper skirt, and a few other misc items.
I used a cheapie Craftsman siphon sandblaster. To do the job right, it took
on average about 4 hours per piece. This may seem like a long time, but the
results are really amazing. I paid $650 for the dry strip that was
unacceptable, and doing it myself cost approx $150 in sand and ceramic
nozzles. An investment in time really pays off.
Today, I used Sherwin Williams 980 etching primer/filler (and surgical
gloves when touching the cleaned bare metal) and primed all the parts. Now,
I can take my time and assess all the small damage that needs repaired. I
have door bottom sheet metal to replace, various dents to fix, and some spot
welding to do. Good news is, the primer will protect the metal until I get
around to repairing everything at which time, epoxy primer and top coat can
be applied. I took a chance and went to a Tool Show in Newton, KS at the
National Guard Armory (cheapie tools) and purchased a Touch-Up Spray Gun (8
oz. can I think) for $14.95. I know you get what you pay for, but I was very
impressed! It works as advertised and really did a fine job. I dunno how
well it would do on top coats, but on primer it works amazingly well.
Next step is to sandblast the cab. As explained above, this will take
considerable time, but I am positive I can complete it in a week. I will
sandblast inside and out very thoroughly. My dad (who finally came back to
Kansas after spending the winter in south TX) made me a Cab Cart. This is
really nice! It has 2 wheels that pivot and 2 stationary. The wheels are
large and the stationary ones are inflatable. Its footprint is the size of
the cab so it takes no more room than the cab, and its platform is built
perfectly to accomodate the cab mounting holes. Of course the custom
platform is raised and set up to protect the floor of the cab. To top that
off, he made a hitch so I can pull the cab cart around with my Lawn Tractor!
Now, when I sandblast the cab in our lot next to the shop, I dont have to
have help moving it out to the sandblast site.
I have another roll of film and I will scan them soon and get them up on the
site. Stay tuned for further developments. As always, thanks to everyone for
all the advice and help I seem to constantly need!
Deve
50 3100
49 3600
www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 18:30:00 -0600
From: ADvent@thuntek.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] acid to remove rust
yes, that will eat everything. besides how would you dispose of it, thats
dangerous stuff.
Ole Trucks wrote:
> I can get 5 gal of hydrochloric aka muriatic acid for free. Is there a
down
> side in using this to remove the rust on my truck. I would use it prior to
> painting a sealer primer coat.
>
> Options both positive and negative accepted;>
>
> Thanks
> Jim House
> 46 Chevy 3104
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 18:41:35 -0600
From: ADvent@thuntek.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Battery relocation on TF truck
I would only inside mount it if i had an explosion proof (for a battery, not
a bomb) box to fully contain the battery contents if you happen go get into
a nasty wreck or you alternator decides to over charge the batter until it
gasses. batteries give of h2so4 which is hydrogen sulfide and it acts as a
anethsesia, so you no longer will smell it after awhile and you'll think
everything is ok and all of a sudden, you drop over from h2so4 poisoning. WE
had gas masks and h2s alarms, when it got over a certain cocintration, the
alarms went off and it was time to wear gas masks. This was on some drilling
rigs i wotrked on in okla
J & M Street wrote:
> I would like to get the battery off of the firewall in my '55-2 hotrod.
> Since my truck will be very low to the ground I figured it would be hard
> to access if I were to mount it to the frame underneath the cab. It's a
> smaller sealed Optima battery so I considered behind the passenger seat
> inside the cab (gas tank is removed) but that is a last resort. I'm open
> to any and all suggestions, thanks in advance. -Jeff
>
> Jeff Street
> '55-2 short/step "Street's rod-project"
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 18:54:54 -0600
From: ADvent@thuntek.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Faster Signal Light...more bulbs, blinksfaster...
when i get a fast blink, i look to see if a bulb is burned out and it usually
is that.
the more load, the slower it will flash. next time on the road, look at
someone pulling
a trailer and using their blinkers.
Bill Bailey wrote:
> >apparently the higher load makes the relay
> >switch quicker. ..... That gets me to thinking,
> >that if you place a resistor in series with the light bulb, I
wonder if it
> >would help speed it up more by adding more resistance to the
circuit?
>
> Hi! If your assumption is true that more load, load being defined as
> current draw, makes it flash faster, then adding resistance to the circuit
> will make it go in the opposite direction. Resistance in series reduces
> overall current draw. What you would need are resistors in parallel to the
> light bulbs to draw more current. They would no doubt be pretty hefty (>5
> watt) resistors.
> I believe you are correct about more current draw equaling faster flashing
> however. I think flashers use a bimetallic thermal breaker which heats as
> load is drawn through it up to the point where it opens..then it cools and
> the cycle starts again. Thus more current draw would speed up the cycle.
> The whole thing is similar to the bimetal breaker in the headlight switches
> of our trucks except in the flashers case you want it to open. :)
>
> Bill Bailey
> 57 Chevy 3100
> http://members.tripod.com/~oltruck
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 18:56:57 -0600
From: ADvent@thuntek.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Faster Signal Light...more bulbs, blinks faster...
if you run a resisitor in it, run it by itself from the flasher, but this will
still
slow it not speed it. at least your lights wont be dim
sheldon wrote:
> Most of the "OLE" style flasher units have a bi-metal strip with a set of
> contact points at the end. As current passes thru this bi-metal strip it
> heats up. The two (bi) pieces of metal expand at different rates, causing
> the strip to bend or curl, opening the point set. When it cools, the points
> close again, and the cycle repeats......Adding more load to this unit WILL
> decrease the heat up cycle... the signal light will be on for a shorter
> time, although the off time may not be any shorter. Putting a resister in
> series will slow the cycle, and also dim the light. putting a resistior
> (or another light bulb) in parallel will add load to the circuit and
> shorten the cycle, or at least the "on" time.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GremlinGTs@aol.com [SMTP:GremlinGTs@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2000 5:03 AM
> To: fordfalcon@juno.com
> Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Faster Signal Light...more bulbs, blinks
faster...
>
> I've also noticed that when I'm using tow lights hooked up to my '74 Chevy
> truck, they'll blink faster...apparently the higher load makes the relay
> switch quicker. So, either you need a flasher with a lower capacitance
> rating(?), or you could add side marker lights. That gets me to thinking,
> that if you place a resistor in series with the light bulb, I wonder if it
> would help speed it up more by adding more resistance to the circuit? I
> know
> that they make "heavy duty" flasher relays for towing, but I think that
> just
> allows for more light bulbs, so it'll blink slower with just the normal
> bulbs in the circuit. Never really spent any time on that "problem", lol.
> Old trucks have clunky old relays, anyway, so upgrading to a newer one
> will
> probably get you a faster blinking rate no matter what. Couldn't hurt to
> try
> it, anyway. They're pretty cheap.
>
> Jerry Casper
> Woodbridge, VA
> 55 2nd Chevy Suburban
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 19:00:24 -0600
From: ADvent@thuntek.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Headlight buckets needed
I have your buckets, make me an offer. i have no idea what they are worth.
new mexico jim
50 3100
51 6400
54 6100 parts truck
Paul Blosser wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone has extra headlight buckets, bezels etc for a
> 54 3100 -- mine are rusted pretty badly. I need everything however the
> chrome bezels don't need to be good chrome as I plan to french the
> headlights. I've looked at Hagen's kit and it's a bit pricey and
> according to their instructions the fenders need massaged some to make
> their buckets fit.
>
> TIA,
>
> Paul Blosser
> 1954 3100
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 19:10:38 -0600
From: ADvent@thuntek.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] future project
those are all over the place in california, but they do it to jap trucks, not
fine works of art like the AD series. The top of the cab is part of the
structural integrity to hold eveything together in an accedent
David wrote:
> Brad,
>
> I thought that convertible trucks were not legal to drive on the highway.
>
> I tried to look it up, but forget where I heard it.
>
> Sounds like a great idea though.
>
> David Edwards
> 1954 3100 5 Window
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brad Newman <bkn6@airmail.net>
> To: oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2000 9:49 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] future project
>
> | As the completion of a 2 year, frame off restoration of my stock 49
> | comes into view, I'm already looking for my next project, and would like
> | ya'lls opinion.
> | My son is 13, and is already trying to convince me that we need to find
> | him a truck and start working on it for his first vehicle. He, of
> | course, would like more of a rod than a stocker, which is fine by me,
> | and somewhere along the line he got it in his head that he would like a
> | convertible AD! I have seen a couple of these in different magazines,
> | and must admit they looked pretty sharp. I have found a 54 3 window cab
> | that is in pretty good shape everywhere except for the roof, so its a
> | good candidate if I decide to do this.
> | Has anyone ever attempted this? Am I getting in over my head? There is a
> | company here in Dallas that will make both hard tops (glass) and soft
> | tops for any vehicle, so that part is easy. It seems pretty straight
> | forward, but I'm the guy that originally thought that my frame off on
> | the 49 would take about 6 months. What do ya'll think?
> | Thanks
> | Brad
> |
> | oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 23:09:04 -0400
From: "Jimmy Whitley" <doodle@flintemc.net>
Subject: [oletrucks] AERO KROIL
Someone asked for this address for KROIL.
KANO LABORATORIES
1000 S. Thompson Lane
Nashville TN. 37211-2627
phone 615-833-4101
www.kanolabs.com
Jimmy
doodle@flintemc.net
http://members.flintemc.net/~doodle/index.html
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 01:29:21 -0400
From: "Boteler Family" <boteler@olg.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Patch panels for a '56
Smokey, the lower hinge "pocket" is not available, you will have to make
that one! The "lower hinge pocket" available now from vendors is just the
lower post skin. I just replaced all of the bad metal on my son's '56 cab
and I think we used every patch panel available (both side rear inner &
outer, full steps w/ rockers, lower hinge pockets). I had to make the
actual lower hinge pockets and a small section of the floor.
As a note, if you can see your tire looking through the hinge pocket you
will probably need to do some work on the air ducts also. Have you removed
the fenders yet? It may be worse than you think!
Good Luck!
Mike B. '56 8400 Wrecker :)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Culver" <sculver@iwl.net>
To: "oletrucks list" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2000 12:06 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Patch panels for a '56
> I'm about to start replacing some metal on the '56, and am not quite sure
> what to order in the way of patch panels. From the picture in the Chevy
> Duty catalog, I know that I will need the lower door post for both sides,
> assuming that this is the part to which the bottom hinges bolt. Question:
> I can look through a hole rusted out next to the lower hinge, and see the
> front tire. All this metal is rusted out. Can anyone tell me exactly
what
> I need to order in the way of patch panels for this section? I also plan
to
> replace all fenders at some point.
>
> Thanks-
>
> Smokey Culver
> '50 3600 5-window (mine) & '56 3600 (hers)
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 00:01:29 -0700
From: "Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>
Subject: [oletrucks] Gas Additives?
Hi All,
Have been having a blast with my 55 series 2 -(235 engine) for the last
week. Other than using a Quart of oil in 500 miles it has not given me
any problem (other than a messy garage floor). Since I am new to this
old truck hobby I am finding this list serve to be a great resource.
I was wondering if you advise using any gas additives at fill up?
Also the gas gauge does not work. It indicates empty with the key off
and goes to full when the ignition is on. Is this the sender or the
float?
Thanks
Steve
55 chevy series 2 short bed w/ 235
- --
Steven R. Goss
Arizona Scholarship Fund
http://www.Azscholarships.org
mailto:Steve@Azscholarships.org
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 23:52:17 -0700
From: Jennifer Maze <jlmaze@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: [oletrucks] Which subframe?
I have a 55 second series truck and was hoping to put independent front
suspension in it and had heard that a Camaro front clip was a good
choice. Does anyone know what year Camaro to use or what are other good
choices for front suspension (mustang II or volaire?). Any help will be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul & Jen
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 00:05:00 -0700
From: "Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>
Subject: [oletrucks] Oil and Filters
Hi all
Got another question. I am using 10-40 detergent oil in my 235.
Is this recommended? ... and is thier a kit to install an oil filter?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
- --
Steven R. Goss
Arizona Scholarship Fund
http://www.Azscholarships.org
mailto:Steve@Azscholarships.org
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 06:14:27 EDT
From: Advdesign1@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: [oletrucks] Gas Additives?
- --part1_b1.31a9975.262aec83_boundary
>
> I was wondering if you advise using any gas additives at fill up?
Do you add root beer to Jack Daniels? I stay away from such adulterants.
> Also the gas gauge does not work... goes to full when the ignition is on.
Resistor in tank unit most likely burned out. Ground hot wire at tank top
and gauge will read over full if dash unit is good.
Bob ADler
- --part1_b1.31a9975.262aec83_boundary
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 00:01:29 -0700
From: "Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>
Organization: Arizona Scholarship Fund
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Subject: [oletrucks] Gas Additives?
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Reply-To: "Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>
Hi All,
Have been having a blast with my 55 series 2 -(235 engine) for the last
week. Other than using a Quart of oil in 500 miles it has not given me
any problem (other than a messy garage floor). Since I am new to this
old truck hobby I am finding this list serve to be a great resource.
I was wondering if you advise using any gas additives at fill up?
Also the gas gauge does not work. It indicates empty with the key off
and goes to full when the ignition is on. Is this the sender or the
float?
Thanks
Steve
55 chevy series 2 short bed w/ 235
- --
Steven R. Goss
Arizona Scholarship Fund
http://www.Azscholarships.org
mailto:Steve@Azscholarships.org
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
- --part1_b1.31a9975.262aec83_boundary--
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 06:23:33 EDT
From: Advdesign1@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: [oletrucks] Oil and Filters
- --part1_8.3b711a7.262aeea5_boundary
> I am using 10-40 detergent oil in my 235.
Yes. I am starting an article for THIS OLD TRUCK on motor oil.
Make sure there is API rating "SJ" in the fine print on the bottle. 10w30
may be slightly better for initial start up.
Bob ADler
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Message-ID: <38F9661C.6FF67C8B@AZscholarships.org>
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 00:05:00 -0700
From: "Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>
Organization: Arizona Scholarship Fund
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Subject: [oletrucks] Oil and Filters
Sender: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: "Steven R. Goss" <Steve@AZscholarships.org>
Hi all
Got another question. I am using 10-40 detergent oil in my 235.
Is this recommended? ... and is thier a kit to install an oil filter?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
- --
Steven R. Goss
Arizona Scholarship Fund
http://www.Azscholarships.org
mailto:Steve@Azscholarships.org
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
- --part1_8.3b711a7.262aeea5_boundary--
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 06:28:23 EDT
From: Advdesign1@aol.com
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] early 235
> early 235s had splash oiling and
> babbet bearings. Patrick's has a great guide in his catalogue for
> identifying the full pressure engines.
You don't need Patricks to ID an early 235. If it has an oil distributor
valve it is low pressure. that is the 3 bolt cover behind exhaust spout
with copper tube loop. From that casting date of late 1953 it has to be a 54
which all had high pressure oiling. good engine.
Bob ADler
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 09:23:43 -0400
From: Allen Coblentz <wac8019@erinet.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Gas Additives?
I add a lead substitute to my gas....my engine was re-built before I got it
and I'm not sure if they used hardened valves/seats.......The lead
substitute is just alittle insurance.
Allen
"Steven R. Goss" wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Have been having a blast with my 55 series 2 -(235 engine) for the last
> week. Other than using a Quart of oil in 500 miles it has not given me
> any problem (other than a messy garage floor). Since I am new to this
> old truck hobby I am finding this list serve to be a great resource.
>
> I was wondering if you advise using any gas additives at fill up?
>
> Also the gas gauge does not work. It indicates empty with the key off
> and goes to full when the ignition is on. Is this the sender or the
> float?
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
> 55 chevy series 2 short bed w/ 235
>
> --
> Steven R. Goss
> Arizona Scholarship Fund
> http://www.Azscholarships.org
> mailto:Steve@Azscholarships.org
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
- --
- -----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 11:14:07 EDT
From: GremlinGTs@aol.com
Subject: [oletrucks] Great Chevy p/u book, called Chevy Pickup Trucks...
I was at the used book store yesterday, and ran across a great book with
mostly ALL color shots in it, and lots of them! Published by Motorbooks
International, author is Steve Statham, its 96 pages of Chevy trucks from the
early '30's to the early '70's, but the Task Force trucks seem to have a
majority of the coverage and pictures. One I REALLY loved is a red NAPCO '55
Chevy Suburban, from Jim Knight of "Pickups 'n Panels in Print", great
right-front shot of it. The book shows close-ups of the dashs, an original TF
radio, some orginal ads, the optional hood rockets of '56 and '57 Chevy, some
old B & W photo's of them being used as work trucks, like a highway "cone
plucker", and a special Texas magnetic "nail picker" truck with DUAL REAR
WHEELS on a PANEL truck. The GMC pics are few, about 2 pages worth, with the
Suburban P/U shown twice and the automatic column shift photo's featured for
GMC. There's even a 1-ton '57 Chevy flatbed truck picture, nice dark green
w/white roof. I counted 20 pages out of the books as covering just TF alone,
55-59 ( 21 counting the front cover of a nice blue '57 Cameo ). The AD's get
just 8 pages, The '30's and '40's trucks ( with hardly a mention and no pics
of the '46-47 Wurlizter trucks) get about 23 pages, and the later 60's and
'70's trucks get the rest, including some of the El Camino and Corvair
Rampside P/U. All in all, a nice book for anyone's collection. It's normally
$12.95 new, according to the book cover, printed in '96, the ISBN # is :
0-7603-0103-4 . so, that's my contribution for today. Have a great Sunday!
Jerry Casper
Woodbridge, VA
'55 TF Suburban
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 12:19:08 -0400
From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
Subject: [oletrucks] Best polish and wax
Don't know if any of you see "Consumer Reports", but they rated waxes and
polishes in the latest issue (May). I was surprised by some of the results.
- - Zymol - Cleaner Wax was top rated...but it's $16 per bottle
- - Prestone Bullet Wax was a close 2nd....and about $7 per bottle
- - Nu Finish Paste Wax was 3rd
- - Armor All Car Wax...4th
- - 3M One Step Cleaner Wax ....5th
All five of these rated very close to each other. Looks like the
determining factor (at least for me) is price. I have been using Meguiar's
Cleaner Wax (liquid), but it rated in the bottom third. Meguiar's Cleaner
Wax paste was dead last.
Tom Caperton
'47 2nd 3100
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 10:58:04 -0600
From: Bruce Damen <little-castle-contracting@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Project Update
sounds great deve, wishing i had the time you have to do my truck. one
thing
that i think some one told me is that primer does not protect your metal from
rusting, i do think there is some types of primes that do rusty proof the
metal
but most primers are for adhesion of the paint not for protection of the
metal
to any great degree... again this is all hear say and maybe something to
consider before everything you do has to be redone because of the cursed rust
monsters. keep the up dates coming maybe it will motivate me to make time
and
try to catch up to you
Bruce
1949 chev 1/2 ton
Deve Krehbiel wrote:
> I just spent the last approx 2 weeks re-sandblasting and have now finished
> four fenders, inside fenders, running boards, doors, hood halves, seat
> frame, grill pan, radiator mount, bumper skirt, and a few other misc items.
> I used a cheapie Craftsman siphon sandblaster. To do the job right, it took
> on average about 4 hours per piece. This may seem like a long time, but the
> results are really amazing. I paid $650 for the dry strip that was
> unacceptable, and doing it myself cost approx $150 in sand and ceramic
> nozzles. An investment in time really pays off.
>
> Today, I used Sherwin Williams 980 etching primer/filler (and surgical
> gloves when touching the cleaned bare metal) and primed all the parts. Now,
> I can take my time and assess all the small damage that needs repaired. I
> have door bottom sheet metal to replace, various dents to fix, and some
spot
> welding to do. Good news is, the primer will protect the metal until I get
> around to repairing everything at which time, epoxy primer and top coat can
> be applied. I took a chance and went to a Tool Show in Newton, KS at the
> National Guard Armory (cheapie tools) and purchased a Touch-Up Spray Gun (8
> oz. can I think) for $14.95. I know you get what you pay for, but I was
very
> impressed! It works as advertised and really did a fine job. I dunno how
> well it would do on top coats, but on primer it works amazingly well.
>
> Next step is to sandblast the cab. As explained above, this will take
> considerable time, but I am positive I can complete it in a week. I will
> sandblast inside and out very thoroughly. My dad (who finally came back to
> Kansas after spending the winter in south TX) made me a Cab Cart. This is
> really nice! It has 2 wheels that pivot and 2 stationary. The wheels are
> large and the stationary ones are inflatable. Its footprint is the size of
> the cab so it takes no more room than the cab, and its platform is built
> perfectly to accomodate the cab mounting holes. Of course the custom
> platform is raised and set up to protect the floor of the cab. To top that
> off, he made a hitch so I can pull the cab cart around with my Lawn
Tractor!
> Now, when I sandblast the cab in our lot next to the shop, I dont have to
> have help moving it out to the sandblast site.
>
> I have another roll of film and I will scan them soon and get them up on
the
> site. Stay tuned for further developments. As always, thanks to everyone
for
> all the advice and help I seem to constantly need!
>
> Deve
> 50 3100
> 49 3600
> www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 13:54:10 -0400
From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
Subject: [oletrucks] Online Album... Great Trucks !
Just added 10 new truck pics to my Zing online album if you want to take a
look. The latest additions are from the Charlotte (NC) AutoFair...April
6-9. The TF 4x4 fans will love the white '55 rod. New pics have some
outstanding restorations....which are from Saturday's auto show held in the
infield (AutoFair is held at the Charlotte Motor Speedway). Just click on
the link below to get to the pics.
Tom Caperton
'47 2nd 3100
http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4294573631
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-msdownload which had
a name of Navidad.exe]
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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