Gotta agree on the sandblast thing here. The guys I've seen who do
sandblasting on a large scale use equipment that could sandblast the Golden
Gate Bridge....I wouldn't let them anywhere near my fragile 40-50 year old
sheetmetal. BUT! The outfit may know what they're doing, and you just need
to ask how they protect your stuff from damage...
On the paint. I used to work in a body shop when your choices were laquer
or enamel. Period. So that dates myself a bit I guess....but we usually
figured a gallon of paint BEFORE the addition of any reducers or other
material as a standard rule of thumb. For complete recolor jobs on large
cars we even might bump that a bit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of G. Simmons
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 2:54 AM
To: Kevin; oltrucks
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] surface area - sandblasting/painting
>I'm going to be sandblasting and painting my truck, and was wondering about
>how long it takes (sandblasting) and how much paint is needed for either
the
>complete whole truck, or just the cab (inside and out).
Geez, Kevin, be careful here. If they say they can sandblast the whole cab
in 3 hours so that it is ready for paint, they may have some high pressures
in mind that will ruin your sheet metal. For a frame, this would be fine,
but for a cab, be wary.
There are some systems out there which could do a cab in three hours without
hurting the metal, but they're rare. Baking soda and plastic media have
specialized machinery to keep the volume high but the friction low. Maybe
that's what you've found, but make sure you know.
The other thing that sounds awry is that there are so many crevices and
hidden parts on a cab that to do a thorough job, even with the right
equipment, should take more than 3 hours to get it ready for paint. You may
have to plan on finishing it yourself, which isn't too bad if the major part
of the work is done right. If you're doing the whole thing yourself, so the
large spaces on the outside with a DA sander and finish details with a
sandblaster.
As to paint, a pro could probably do the topcoat with a gallon and a half,
assuming he wasn't going to sand. If you do it yourself, you will use a lot
more, especially if you do a nice job and sand between coats. Your ultimate
paint job will not only be much smoother, but much more durable than a thin
topcoat job.
Regards,
Grant S.
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|