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Re: [oletrucks] Running Boards

To: Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Running Boards
From: Lee Glenn <lglenn11@home.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 19:44:08 -0600
Hi, Deve.

It's kinda funny you bring this subject up, since I'm trying to fix mine too.
Basically, I've got set of them (long box) that are mid-way to being just
right.  I didn't need to use any patch panels, but with welding and a little
bondo they're coming along.  My problem is how to make them straight without any
wavyness.  I'm at a loss.  It's like you need be some kinda sculptor with bondo
or something.

The problem is the hills and valleys.  A friend suggested glassing them smooth,
but I really like the look of the stock ones.  And I'd really like to paint them
body color.

I thought that a Dremel tool might help (maybe running it in some type of jig or
something), but I haven't purchased one yet.  If anyone else has any tips,
please pass 'em along.

Thanks.
-Lee


Deve Krehbiel wrote:

> Over the past several months I have been collecting running boards so I can
> put together a set for my deluxe 50. All of them had severe (more than
> severe) rust through and were basically almost trash. I discovered that
> Chevy Duty has the channels along the bottom (all three that connect to the
> trucks brackets as well as the long one that supports the running board
> itself) and Jim Carters has a nice long narrow patch panel for the top that
> is 7" x 22". Basically everything you need to put together some nicer
> running boards. Thing is, its expensive to buy all these parts, so I just
> collected a bunch of bad running boards and combined them into one set.
>
> Its pretty hard to weld the top patch panels in straight due to the hills
> and valleys. You have to butt weld the panels in so measuring is pretty
> critical, then once they are welded from underneath (after all the braces
> are removed) you then have to weld from the top as well which makes for a
> lot of grinding in those hills and valleys. Patience is pretty important. I
> am not completely finished yet with the grinding. I will use a Dremel Tool
> for the final grind and then get out the primer/surfacer and sand everything
> down so its not possible to tell that it was patched (in theory). I spent
> today sandblasting them. Besides the fact that I needed a set for my truck,
> I wanted to do this to see if I could do it without spending a lot of money.
> New or even used running boards are pretty expensive and good ones in the
> salvage yard are very very rare. You can get really crappy ones in the
> salvage yard pretty cheap tho. I got a set and the guy asked me why I wanted
> them and then shook his head and charged me $1.00 a piece for them. It took
> 3 sets to make one good set, but the price was right and I got some good
> welding practice out of it. Just thot I'd share.
>
> Deve Krehbiel
> Hesston, Kansas
> 1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
> www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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