Looked back through my files and found the post by Bob Adler on 3/2/99
regarding interior paint for AD trucks. According to Bob, the "champagne"
color for interiors has the following paint codes ........
1947 to 1952 PPG DDL3613
1953 PPG 33210
In another post from Bob, he lists the paint code for the steering column as
a separte color. It's......
DuPont 8540 .....which he also says is used on the gearshift remote
control.
Bob sells a "paint package" with all this info......including paint chips
with old and new mixable numbers. Not sure of the price. Hope all this
helps......and let me know if I can provide any further info.
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
tcape@weblnk.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Stephens" <intubated@earthlink.net>
To: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
> Tom
> You have the paint code for the column from Bob A? You bet I would like
to
> have it. I have the code for the interior paint color, but am missing the
> column code. My brother in law is a auto painter, does a great job, and
> with the codes can get the mixtures from the computer. Probably cheaper
> than $35 a pint, and maybe better paint (you know, the kind that will kill
> you if you breath the vapors!).
> Thanks a lot. Glad you could use the bracket.
> Brian
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
> To: "Brian Stephens" <intubated@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 7:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
>
>
> > Brian, it's damn nice to see us getting back to discussing oletrucks,
> isn't
> > it! If you need the paint recommended by Bob Adler, let me know. I
think
> > I've got his original post somewhere in my notebook. I'll be glad to
dig
> it
> > out. I owe you one anyway!
> > Tom Caperton
> > 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > tcape@weblnk.net
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Brian Stephens" <intubated@earthlink.net>
> > To: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>;
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 4:48 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
> >
> >
> > > All right! I am glad to see this list reverting to the task at hand;
> old
> > > trucks and our work on them.
> > > Jim Carter sells paint which he says is the specific color for the
> > steering
> > > column , wheel, etc. Has anyone used this product? At $35 a pint,
does
> > > anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Where is Bob ADler when you
need
> > him!
> > > Brian Stephens
> > > 49 3104
> > > Owasso, OK
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>
> > > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 2:05 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
> > >
> > >
> > > > should the steering wheel be black, or the interior color?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > At 02:28 PM 12/05/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > > > >Mike, I plan to put one coat of primer on the wheel, then 2-3 coats
> of
> > > black
> > > > >enamel.....then 2-3 coats of clearcoat. Some of the other list
> members
> > > used
> > > > >this process and say it seems to work for years. I'll post a
report
> on
> > > the
> > > > >process as soon as I'm finished. HOPEFULLY, it will be a positive
> > > report.
> > > > >
> > > > >Larry Kephart has an excellent article on his webpage regarding
> > steering
> > > > >wheel restoration. The address is........
> > > > >http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2000/wip4a.htm Thanks Larry for
> doing
> > > such
> > > > >a great job documenting the process.
> > > > >
> > > > >Good luck with your wheel, Mike!
> > > > >Tom Caperton
> > > > >47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > > >From: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
> > > > >To: <tcape@weblnk.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > > >Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 11:58 AM
> > > > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair....shaping wheel
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >> In a message dated 12/5/00 7:13:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > > >> writes:
> > > > >>
> > > > >> > Well, I'm moving right along with the restoration of the
steering
> > > wheel
> > > > >on
> > > > >> > my '47-2. I washed the wheel with Fast Orange hand cleaner
and
> > got
> > > all
> > > > >the
> > > > >> > gunk off. I then cut the cracks with a Dremel tool to make
room
> > for
> > > > >the
> > > > >> J-B
> > > > >> > Weld. Now that the J-BW has dried, I need to cut it down and
> > shape
> > > it
> > > > >to
> > > > >> > the wheel. What's the best tool to use in doing this....round
> > > > >> > file....rasp...other tools?? This is my first time working
with
> > J-B
> > > > >Weld,
> > > > >> > but I assume I won't be able to just sand it down to where it
> > blends
> > > > >with
> > > > >> > the shape of the wheel. I'd sure appreciate your help with
> this.
> > > And
> > > > >a
> > > > >> > special thanks to all the folks who supplied the information
on
> > > > >restoring
> > > > >> > the wheel. I wouldn't have attempted this if you hadn't
jumped
> in
> > > with
> > > > >> such
> > > > >> > good instructions and advice.
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > One additional comment and question......When I cut the cracks
> out
> > > with
> > > > >the
> > > > >> > Dremel tool, I think I cut them too deep. I cut all the way
> down
> > to
> > > > >the
> > > > >> > metal core....which left a pretty deep rut to fill. Is it
> > necessary
> > > to
> > > > >cut
> > > > >> > that far down? Can you just cut just a little way down into
the
> > > crack
> > > > >and
> > > > >> > still get the J-B Weld or epoxy to stick in there OK and not
> crack
> > > > >again in
> > > > >> > the future? I'll soon be restoring the steering wheel on a
'29
> > F**d
> > > > >and
> > > > >> > don't want to make the same mistakes twice. Thanks in advance
> for
> > > your
> > > > >> > help!
> > > > >> > Tom Caperton
> > > > >> > 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > > >> > tcape@weblnk.net
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Hi Tom,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I actually saw a guy cut the whole section of the crack
> out...made
> > > about
> > > > >a
> > > > >> 1/2inch gap, then filled with an epoxy-type stuff...then used a
> > narrow
> > > > >> sanding drum on a drill to shape it...don't know if it was
> necessary,
> > > but
> > > > >he
> > > > >> sure came out with a nice looking match.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> What are you using for paint that won't come off in your hands?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Mike
> > > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Dale Withroder PH: 1-888-233-8469
> > > > dale@pro-mentoring.com FAX: 1-800-669-1132
> > > > multimedia development http://www.pro-mentoring.com
> > > > Professional Mentoring, LLC ICQ: 13411058
> > > > --
> > > > Between two evils, I always pick the one I never tried before.
> > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|