go to your local parts place and look for those linsey tools on the red and
white
vacuum pressed cardboard. they have a tool to remove the reound retainers and
the
springs and don't forget the eye protection. those things can fly forcefully
and as
mom would say " be careful, you could poke somebody's eye out with that thing".
"Radicic, Gary" wrote:
> All,
> 1. Does anyone have a good way to remove the washer like retainer on the pivot
> pin at the 6 o'clock position on the rear brakes? If I pry it off, it will no
> doubt be trashed. Is it easily replaceable? I haven't seen them in Chevy
>Duty,
> etc.
>
> 2. Also what about the small 3/4" x 1" springs holding the shoe mount
>together?
> How do they come off?
> Thanks,
> Gary
>
> Gary Radicic
> 1950 Chev 3604
> Geneseo, IL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Advdesign1@aol.com [mailto:Advdesign1@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 4:39 AM
> To: bheigher@yahoo.com; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Screw Removal
>
> Barry's info below is OUTSTANDING.
> Bob ADler
> >
> > I've had good luck just tapping directly on the head
> > of clutch head screws with a ballpeen hammer and then
> > turn the screw to tighten, then loosen, tighten and
> > then remove. I've also read, but not tried, of heating
> > (propane torch/soldering iron) the screws, bolts etc
> > and then touching parrafin wax to the head. This
> > supposedly draws the melted wax down to the threads
> > and makes removal possible. If anyone tries this let
> > us know if it works. Might get a little stinky if the
> > the rubber seal is involved
> >
> > Valve grinding compound or a product called Grip Tight
> > is supposed to add friction to the tip of the driver
> > and reduce the chance of slipping/stripping the screw
> > head.
> >
> > Barry
> >
> >
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|