Hey!!!
Thanks for the help guys,
I coaxed it out of the truck, and disassembled it. It's not in bad shape,
but all of the rubber will need replacing for sure. I believe I'll get a
kit from Chevy Duty.
Also, the archive as great, thanks for the address. Looks like almost all
of the questions I have can be answered there. Great for a rookie like me!!
I have one quick question though:
I have soft spots developing in the front inside of my cab around where
the rear view mirror attaches to the roof, what is the best, rookie proof,
economical way to remedy this problem?
Thanks again!!!
Terry.
From: "G. Simmons" <gls@4link.net>
To: "Terry Bancesco" <drducttape@hotmail.com>, <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] master cylinder on 57
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 22:32:11 -0700
From: Terry Bancesco <drducttape@hotmail.com>
>My first question is, is there any special tricks to coaxing an old dry
>master cylinder in a 57 GMC AD to life while it's still in the truck? I
Hi and welcome, Terry.
I think you'd do well to remove the M/C and inspect it. Hone it if there is
shallow pitting, or replace if there is major wear. Put in a rebuild kit
and bleed the system. It is easy to remove. After the lines are loose,
unbolt the clevis pin at the pedal, and remove the two bolts holding it to
the frame.
I suspect you need to bleed the whole system, and that the air pressure is
keeping the fluid from flowing into the chamber of the M/C.
Even if you want to keep it original, I recommend strongly that you consider
a dual m/c even if not power. I have had single m/cs fail twice, and many
guys on the list have had similar bad experiences. Any problem in the
system means you have no brakes. This is very dangerous. A concession to
safety is worth a small price of originality.
Regards,
Grant S.
54 3100 (mostly all there)
54 3100 (mostly not there)
55 1st 3100 (mostly rust)
Los Angeles, CA
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