Excellent description of the brake bleeding process, Grant! That's one to
print out and keep for the 'home shop manual'. Is the process you describe
a "one-person" process....or do you still need someone to pump the brakes
while you check the lines?
Thanks,
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 2:05 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Bleeding
> >My problem is I've pumped about half a gallon of brake fluid through
>just
> one wheel cylinder with the Mityvac over a couple hours and I am >still
> getting air through the lines.
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> It does take a long time to move all that air a few inches at a time from
an
> empty system. Doug's comment that there may be a leak somewhere strikes
me
> as a likely diagnosis if you've given it a fair chance already. I wonder
if
> the vacuum method draws air from the whole system rather than just the
line
> you're trying to bleed. I thought I'd tell you my method, which uses
> pressure from the pedal rather than vacuum from the cyllinder. This isn't
> necessarily better, but is just another technique.
>
> The equipment required is a wrench for the bleeder valve, a short length
of
> aquarium tubing, a small jar with a lid, and a large clip of the sort used
> for documents.
>
> I punch a hole in the jar lid that will let the tube pass through but
still
> hold the jar on the tube when filled with brake fluid.
>
> I fill the bottom of the jar with 1/2 inch of clean brake fluid, then
screw
> the lid on so the tube end is submerged. The other end of the tube slips
> over the bleeder valve. Then use the clip to hold the tube to the brake
> line or something that will keep the jar supported. Any other way you
can
> think of to make sure the jar doesn't spill will do.
>
> Loosen the bleeder a half turn or so, then slowly depress the pedal two or
> three times and check the fluid level in the jar so you can make sure it
> doesn't overflow. When it gets full empty it down to 1/2 inch and repeat
> until no bubbles appear in the tube. Then tighten the bleeder and move on
> to the next wheel. The pedal will not become stiff till you're near the
> end.
>
> Hope these thoughts help. May just require patience.
>
> Regards,
>
> Grant S.
> 54 3100 (mostly all there)
> 54 3100 (mostly not there)
> 55 1st 3100 (mostly rust)
> Los Angeles, CA
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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